A bit of a drizzly day, with the prospect of dry rock out east, prompted Helen, Jake and me to pay a visit to Dovedale. We were amazed by the thronging hordes mingling around the stepping stones (like a one way system when the traffic lights have failed!)

Thankfully the crowds thinned out considerably within a hundred metres, and there was certainly no sign of anyone else climbing in the valley.

Our objective was Dovedale Church – just about visible through the trees and protected by prickly, stingy fortifications of dense greenery. Maybe not the best day for shorts and Tevas.

Not much sign of traffic, let alone a path, but there were a few dabs of chalk on the classic Snakes Alive, VS. It’s certainly a very strong line, with the imposing corner cleaving the “Church” in two. No giveaway either, with a fair bit of polish testament to a more popular history. Good nonetheless.

Jake fancied Quiet Life, E3 6a and deemed worthy of a couple of stars in the guide. Hrmmm – not in its current state. Here’s Jake’s verdict:

The first 10m is great techy climbing, the second 10m is a pile of choss, loose undergrowth and branches (plus a sneaky ants nest). Worth E4 for me, 6a climbing on slightly iffy gear.

At least it warmed us up nicely for the main event – Tales of the Riverbank, a 3* E5 6a which also features in the Limestone 100. It starts with a fierce blind pull around an overhanging arete into a hidden crack…

The crack itself is also the wrong side of vertical, but does offer gear aplenty – if (and it’s a big IF) you can hang around long enough to get it in! Happily Jake is – Super pumpy, but pretty safe, and for once Helen was happy enough to watch Jake on a tricky route and got some great pictures.

We were rewarded with a great little “summit” top-out and the surreal vista across the “Middle Earth” scenery of Tissington Spires – who needs to go to New Zealand with this on the doorstep?