Kompanj is the other 5* crag in the Buzet area; a defiant final outcrop of immaculate white and orange limestone on the 100km escarpment before it fizzles out towards Rijeka. You don’t get a great view of it from beneath as its base is shrouded in trees…

Another purpose built crag parking area (this one even has a porta-loo) though this van is taking the p1$$ as wild camping is illegal in Croatia.

We were thankful of the tree cover on our first visit, as it’s another fiercely efficient suntrap. Sector Krankenhause is the first friendly one you arrive at and probably has the best selection of 6s.

Probably the pick of the bunch is Roc Cafe, a 30m 6a up an impending corner / crack:

Here’s a picture of visiting German climber Thomas heading up towards the crux.

The following day we made a return visit in much more climbing-conducive conditions, with some welcome cloud cover.

Here’s Helen styling Therapie:

I finally managed to just about scrape my way up a 6b: Krankenmause and was then tempted to revisit a couple of routes I’d led on our previous visit in 2015. Asylantin, 7a, left me flabbergasted at how well I must have been climbing then: totally tenuous and super sustained – I was nowhere near it (though perhaps it has shed some holds, which might explain why there was a hanger missing from the bolt beneath the crux). The eponymous Krankenhause 6c+, was a much closer affair, although I ended up taking one rest – never mind that, it’s an absolutely stunning route!

There’s another dozen or so crags in the vicinity of Buzet, typically smaller, shorter and or harder than Kompanj and Kanjon, and mostly blessed / cursed with the same SW suntrap orientation. We sampled another couple but you could easily spend two or three weeks here if you got lucky with the weather and you were strong enough!

Kamena Vrata is easily accessed above the main road just to the west of Buzet. About 50 routes across a real mix of grades from 4s to 8s, and the added bonus of going into the shade around 3ish

The central pillar has a fab 30m 6b, Cirkus and a couple of equally good 5s including Botanicus:

Another day started with the promise of a cooling cloud inversion…

… but this soon burned off leaving us searching for shade. None to be found on the multi-pitch sector of Istarske Topolice…

… which turned out to be bird banned anyway.

Instead we wound our way up into the hinterland, through gorgeous scenery of patchwork vineyards, to the tiny village of Cepic.

The unusual crag, set in a natural cutting, might not be a destination venue, but the all-day shade, easy access and amenable grades (at least some of them) make it a useful addition.