This is one of the newly-documented crags in the Lopez guide, and we’d earmarked it for a visit last year, but never quite got around to it.

It’s a very attractive crag, and only a short approach walk, but had a couple of downsides that nudged it further down the pecking order: a) it’s west facing and doesn’t really get sun until 2pm, and b) the entry grade is 6a/+ with the vast majority of the routes in the 7s.

Anyway, it floated to the top of the heap this year and we were rewarded with a good day out – as a bonus, there are five new easier routes at the right hand side (not documented anywhere we can find) which not only extend the grade range, but also get the sun a bit earlier – two birds, one stone!

The outlook isn’t too shabby either – you can just about make out Mas de la Penya at Cocentaina in the middle of the ridge on the horizon.

Here’s Helen exploring the rightmost new route – probably a IV, and not awesome, but gets sun around 12.

I did the rightmost route in the guide: Desbloques, 6a+ and recommended, and the route to its right, probably a similar grade – easy at first with a tough last few metres to the chain.

Helen reckoned the remaining new routes (working rightwards) were maybe 6a and V, and both well worth doing.

I made a decent effort at a couple of the 7as: Vibrator Plus (three contrasting cruxy sections, each separated by a decent rest) and Lidia (absorbing but steady until a very thin section around 3/4 height). Both excellent.

There’s more than enough for another visit and it looks like development of the left wing is underway, so should be even more to go at soon.