There’s loads of climbing in the Costa Blanca hinterland around Alcoy, and we based ourselves at El Palomar for a week or so to explore some new venues and revisit some favourites.

We’d had an initial foray to Barranc de L’Avern about 8 years ago after a SunRock meet, and left with an “OK rather than Awesome” verdict. Multiple sectors in a tight, twisting valley, with interesting rock and easy access, but the close proximity of the noisy road detracting from the experience.

Barranc de L’Avern

A number of these are now covered on Rockfax Digital, which makes the same observation about the road, but a bit of web research turned up sectors in the Barranc dels Tarongers gorge, which is off the main drag and looked worth a nosey.

Topos available here: https://celaontinyent.es/vias-escalada-barranc-dels-tarongers-sector-patiras/

The original Patiras sectors line the west bank of the river, and its burbling sound is the only disturbance to the otherwise complete tranquility. South and east facing, and sheltered from any wind, they’re a perfect suntrap.

We did Herbia Sana, 5b, Cuidado Dalton, 6a…

… and Siempre Pobre, 6a

… before retracing our steps to Sector del Deposit, above the parking area:

This is a steep, if stumpy, orange wall with a couple of dozen routes from 6a to 7b.

It also loses the sun around 4pm but I just had time to squeeze in an ascent of Pepe Trola, 7a

By now the sun was catching the opposite bank of the Patiras gorge and the (unimaginatively named) Sector Patiras Mas was looking very appealing.

Helen couldn’t resist the lengthy adventure of Natasha, 6a, to conclude a three-crag day.

The easy access and westerly aspect meant we came back a few days later for a further afternoon sun fix, once it had got chilly at Vallada. Here’s Helen on Furta Caquis, 6a+

… including some major tufa tussles on the right hand side of Patiras Mas:

… and the view across to the main Patiras sector (bottom left) and Deposit (mid right)

Plenty more for a future visit on both sides…

Browsing the Vallada Guidebook (“Guia D’escalada de l’Estret de les Aigues i de la Costera” to give it its full title) I spotted the SolesUp resoling service in town. A couple of FB Messanger exchanges later and I’d booked my Vapour Vs in for some much needed new rubber. We just needed a couple of crag venues that side of the hill to fit in with the drop off and pick up.

Montesa was an ideal choice for a sunny but cold day – full south facing and only a few minutes from the car. The limestone has an almost sandstone-like feel, and is riddled with pockets, and the routes tend towards the short, steep and powerful.

On Paret de la Mola, we did La Virgo (ignore the suggestion on Rockfax that this is a straightforward 5+) and Xila (6a+ and no harder).

Around on Tormo Gros South Face, I did the excellent but tough Montesejos, 6b, and had a fairly tentative look at the new adjacent 7a, but decided my frail fingers would appreciate the monos. Not really my style of climbing, but a glance over the way to the shady Tierra de Nadie and Vallada (which very much are) reminded us why we were chasing the sun.

An earlier start and a warmer forecast a couple of days later, and I figured we might just get a few routes in at Vallada when we went to pick up my shoes. You get a great view of the hermitage and Upper sectors if you take the wiggly route over the hill.

… but by the time we arrive at the crag it was already just about to lose the sun. Helen was planning to take a rest day but had kindly agreed to the slog up to L’Escala de la Vida sector for some belay duty, but the clock was very much ticking before it would be too chilly.

With that in mind, I jumped straight onto Suant Sang, 7a – not a very sensible warmup especially as it features a couple of stiff pulls on monos, but I got away with it.

Next up was the strangely appealing rising traverse of Ingravito, 7a+ – very traddy, and surprisingly straightforward (unless jamming counts as cheating!)

In a final act of belay heroics, Helen held my rope on Si l’encerte l’endevine 7a – took me a couple of goes to work out the crux with a bit of tiredness setting in, but very pleased with our flying visit.

Also very pleased with my resoled boots – good as new, and only €25 and turned around in a couple of days. I’d definitely recommend Solesup.es!