Pyrenean Poudinage

Actually “Poudinage” or pudding is the French slang for conglomerate, and we’re on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees (but only just) so you’ll have to excuse the language mash-up. Anyway, the western extremity of the Bergueda climbing area is composed of conglomerate and centred on the village of Capolat. There’s a LOT of it, much of it accessed from the tiny winding pass of Carretera de Mal Pas, also a favourite of the lycra-clad two-wheel fraternity (especially on a Saturday). There are only a couple of scrapes for parking (and nowhere to pass!) and we ended up not climbing at the eponymous Mal Pas sector because we were too late (and too big) to get a spot. No drama, as a kilometer or so further up the road are the El Balco de Santaina sectors.

You can park on the hairpin and walk down the road about 50m to a quirky stile and then follow a vague path, crossing a wire fence, gently down to head around to the crag.

Conglomerate climbing can often be a bit of a humbling experience, especially if you aren’t tuned in. The preponderance of holds results in a high percentage of wrong choices, especially when trying to onsight, and the grades seem to be set by locals, for locals, and so feel tough for off comers. This was no exception, with L’oruga confusa, 6a and Amanece que no es poco, 6a+ both being fun but stiff, and Espero del Costo, 6c+, giving me a good hiding.

Vultures for company…

… and great views over towards Montserrat…

… and down onto sector Mal Pas below.

One for a revisit in the tranquility of midweek!

Rather than drop down to the main route west through Lleida we decided to go cross-country heading for Col de Nargo via Sant Llorenç de Morunys, which looked to have some climbing and be in a pretty spot.

The whole area is the Vall de Lord and is indeed very charming, and as a bonus we stumbled upon perhaps the most well-appointed Motorhome aire you could ever hope for.

https://lavalldelord.com/gestionsValldeLord/

… complete with hook-up, toilets and sizzling showers, set in the very quiet village of Guixers, and all for the paltry sum of €6. Bargain!

That led to perusing the other Aires available courtesy of the community of Vall de Lord and finding Àrea del Codó which looked to occupy a stupendous location that just happened to be the parking for a decent looking crag. The Topo took a bit of a web trawl so here it is to save you the bother.

The parking also serves a very well appointed and popular (on a Sunday) picnic spot, and you need to follow your nose through the numerous barbecue stands and picnic tables to find the crag approach path (not a well-beaten track!)

We started off on the left end of the upper tier.

Here’s Helen on Maneras de Vivir, V+

… and the well-named 6a (which appropriately was slightly more reasonable for the grade).

Many of the routes have handy painted names

On the subject of “not letting the bastards grind you down” I was delighted to do Red Rum, given 7a, and definitely a case of taking the smooth with the rough.

Down at the lower level, in the centre of the crag, there are a few routes which run the full height of the crag (either in two separate pitches or in a 35m oner). I did Tetiaroa, 6b+ if you do it in one pitch. The name plate didn’t quite match the route but the line was obvious from the topo. Much to my dismay I sent a fist-sized lump of rock down onto Helen as a crumbling foothold sent me flying. Despite much care, I managed to send down a couple of further salvos (luckily near misses) before topping out. Lowering off I took a closer look at the painted route marker, which in hindsight was more obvious: “Il CASCO! PUEDEN CAER PIEDRAS” or “Helmet! Rocks can fall down”.