“Flaming June” seemed like a distant memory as we contemplated the forecast ahead of a planned trip to the South West. “Unsettled” didn’t really do it justice, with torrential rain interspersed with showers on the menu. Nonetheless, we’d committed to a double bill of Rucksack Club meets, first a weekend in the Wye Valley followed by a week in West Penwith, so we set the sat nav for the M5 and headed off, more in hope than expectation.

We arrived at Wyndcliff Quarry soon after the rain stopped, to find that the steep rock, overhung by trees, had kept most of the routes fairly dry. It’s not the greatest rock or venue, but it’s super handy for a quick hit. We managed to bag a trio of starred 6a+s between showers, including the ironically named The Sun is Shining Down, as well as Chepstow Killer Appliances and The End, before rain stopped play – time to catch up with Meet Leader Warby in the Wye watering hole: The Rising Sun.

Bright and encouraging at the campsite the following morning (but for how long?) so we made a dash for Ban y Gor.

This is a natural sport crag, immediately opposite across the Wye from Wyndcliff (and therefore largely north facing). It’s a bit dank feeling and tree-shrouded, but again it was a good fit for the conditions. We managed Morning Wimpenny, 5c, Slug Control, 6b+, A Midsummer Night’s Garden (1), 6a+ and I’ve Got A Bad, Bad Bottom!, 5c (maybe the pick of the bunch, but a fairly dismal bunch) before the deluge prompted us to resume our journey south and westwards.

We arrived late the next morning at The Count House above Bosigran, our base for the week for the joint RC/CC meet, shortly before the rain. This was unremitting through the afternoon and early evening, but stopped in time for a washed out sunset to offer grounds for optimism.

Clearing skies belied the gale force winds the following morning, but it made for good drying weather. You can just about make out an early team on a blustery ascent of Commando Ridge

Helen and I did Venusberg,  and Nameless, both VS 4c, running the full height of the cliff.

In between times, catching up with Mike and Richard on Doorpost…

… and Tony and Owen on Autumn Flakes.

A pair of magnificent routes, and already we felt the long journey had been worthwhile. More sunshine the next day, and we continued ticking off the starred VSs with Ding…

… and Oread.

By mid afternoon we were joined by Tash for a family ascent of Doorpost:

… and then she and I made the most of the gorgeous evening, finishing off with Little Brown Jug:

Back to the Count House for a traditional dinner of Pasties…

… and plenty of banter and beer.

We were feeling a bit Bosied-out by now, so for a change of scene we swapped coasts to explore Holywood Walls on The Lizard. Despite numerous trips to Penwith we’d never visited the most southerly extremity of the British Isles. The climbing could hardly be more contrasting with Bosi. The rock is Kilas Slate (?), wildly overhanging and weirdly structured with sharp edges and pockets, giving positive if sometimes friable holds. Despite the scramble in /non-tidal billing, the sea is very much up close and personal, the incoming rollers make for a splashy, intimidating experience with a totally immersive soundtrack.

The Gold Rush, Silent Movie and Limelight were all VS / HVS and good fun – not a spot for the faint hearted, and all the starts especially are steep and committing.

With the overhanging nature of the rock, and the unrelenting cacophony, communication is a real challenge. We ended up supplementing our usual “three tugs to climb” protocol with WhatsApp (which helped turn a knot in the rope from a potential epic into an amusing interlude). Plenty more to come back for nearby.

Friday looked like a complete washout, with unrelenting rain forecast for the whole day. A typical Rockaroundtheworld response would be to either hit the road or a local microbrewery, but with Tash (our visiting culture vulture) in the team, we headed to the Tate in St Ives. That in turn worked up an appetite for a cream tea at the famous Rosemergy Cottage (almost adjacent to the Count House) by which time a gap had finally appeared in the storm.

John and Chris were already chomping at the bit, and were established on Paragon…

… while Helen, Tash and I geared up for Autumn Flakes:

A fab end to a great week’s climbing in the South West, making the most of the gaps in the weather to climb on 6 days out of 8. Great to catch up with so many Rucksackers and make new friends in the CC. Plans are already afoot for another joint meet next year.