North of Taos you get into skiing country, though it’s hard to imagine with temperatures still nudging 30 at the end of September at almost 9,000ft. We headed to the resort town of Red River in the hope of some cool climbing, but the slightly urban crag of Malette Park faces due south and was absolutely frazzling.

It’s a decent bit of rock – a 30m high slab of (maybe?) quartzite, with half a dozen routes and very easily accessed albeit with a bit of grungy scree, but we were a bit put off by the constant growl from the adjacent Off Highway Vehicles route. We did Bandito, a fun 5.7 (or 8 or +?)

… and the central line of Bounty Hunter 5.10c (surely 11?) although the screaming hot feet on tiny edges probably didn’t help. By this time we were roasted to a turn, so escaped to the tranquility of the Columbine Campground – another fab Forestry Service site. Typical of a high altitude desert, the temperatures plunge at night…

Next day we’d hoped to climb on Questa Dome, a tucked away granite monolith with routes of up to around 6 pitches which came highly recommended. Unfortunately the final mile or so of the access road proved impassable for our 25ft behemoth RV, and we couldn’t even find somewhere discreet to park it to walk the extra distance. One to come back for.

We consoled ourselves with a visit to John Dunn Bridge – not The John Dunne of Parthian Shot fame, but the first permanent crossing point of the Rio Grande for many miles and also one of the earliest developed climbing sites in the area.

The confluence of the Arroyo Hondo River with the Rio Grande has been the historic western access trail from Taos for centuries, and the basalt cliffs either side give climbing on half a dozen areas with different orientations. No other climbers in evidence, but plenty of folks out fishing, kayaking and enjoying the thermal pools.

Hot again, so we started on the west facing River Wall with Black Book, a 5.8 trad corner.

As the sun swung around we crossed the bridge to chase the shade on the Old Stagecoach Road and did No1 G, 5.7+, Sunburned, 5.9, The Prow, 11b (a struggle!) and Monkeywrenchin Momma, 10b. Views back to River Wall…

As an afternoon storm rolled in, with the occasional sprinkle of rain, we decided to chance our luck with a final route on the original John’s Wall. Houston S, 5.9, turned out to be the best route of the day.

A major downpour at least provided the conditions for a stunning rainbow…

… and an excuse, if one were needed, to sample the excellent beers on offer at the Red River Brewing Company.

Heading west, we crossed the Rio Grande again, this time a dozen or so miles further downstream, and you start to appreciate just what a significant obstacle it would have been for indigenous Americans and early settlers, until relatively recent times.

We were off to Tres Piedras, an isolated granite lump in an ocean of desert. There are in fact at least six “rocks” rather than the three suggested by the name, up to 200ft tall, and with climbing on faces in all orientations. Google Maps is a bit confused about the access road so follow the guidebook instructions and turn off next to the green water tower.

It’s a bit reminiscent of Joshua Tree (and there’s an adjacent bouldering area we didn’t visit) with a mix of slab and face climbing, where friction is your friend. Whilst there’s a smattering of bolts, it’s very much a trad area – don’t expect clip-ups.

The first rock you come to is South Rock…

… which is immediately in front of the biggest face: Mosaic Rock. Behind that you’ve got Middle Rock, and then West Rock amongst others. There’s a handy overview on Mountain Project which helps navigate the maze.

Despite the idyllic looking conditions it was actually blowing a hoolie with winds up to 40mph, and the occasional sprinkle of rain – not ideal for runout friction climbing. I also discovered I’d forgotten to pack my slab-climbing head (must have left it at Etive…)

Swastika Ticked!

… which, combined with the generally stiff grading meant we confined ourselves to mostly 5.7s and 8s. Here’s Mama Jugs, 5.8 on Mosaic

… and Albuquerque Route, 5.8+ on Middle (4 bolts and no gear in 100ft)

Really enjoyable climbing, providing you’re happy to park your ego back at the campsite. Talking of which, the dispersed camping along the approach track is really magnificent: huge spaces amidst fragrant pine trees, with a view of the rocks, and the obligatory picnic table and fire pit, all for the princely sum of zero dollars. Another great recreational resource brought to you by the US Forestry Service!