Despite being in southern Arizona, in the middle of the Sonoran Desert, Tucson can lay claim to being a year-round climbing paradise. The secret to this seeming climactic contradiction is the mighty Mt Lemmon, which dominates the skyline to the north of the city and is plastered with exposed, climbable granite for much of its 9,159ft height. Thanks to the Catalina Highway, which winds its way up to the summit over 27 sinuous miles, you can gain straightforward access to crags spread over a height difference of more than 6,000ft, from desert to Alpine – stir in the variety of orientations and you’ve got yourself a four-season playground!

Of course, rock, weather and access are only part of the equation for a world class climbing destination – you also need a great community of climbers, at least some of whom are prepared to put in the hard work to explore, clean and establish routes and access trails (not to mention the investment in bolts for sport routes). Happily, Tucson is blessed with these ingredients too, resulting in over 3,500 routes on Mt Lemmon alone, with a mix of sport and trad, and a good sprinkling of multi-pitch, all on immaculate granite. Leafing through the excellent guidebook, Squeezing The Lemmon, you’ll be struck by the recurrence of the name Jim Scott, who along with guidebook author and local guru Eric Fazio-Rhicard, has been responsible for a huge number of these routes.

We’ve been fortunate enough enjoy the great hospitality and friendship of Jim and his wife Jeanne on two previous visits to Tucson as a part of a Desert Christmas jaunt…

Click to access just-deserts-climbing-in-arizona-namibia-and-the-outback.pdf

… and for Thanksgiving at the end of our Route 66 trans-American trip (as well as Colorado get-together!).

The Ruins

On both occasions we’d had the privilege of a guided tour in the company of the local cognisenti, Jim and Eric, and also had the chance to meet some of the rest of the local crew. Happy times, pulling and laughing hard!

Tragically, Jim passed away suddenly, not long after our last visit, and this was our first opportunity since to visit Jeanne, amidst covid- and health-disrupted plans.

Unseasonably warm for November, even by Tucson standards, we passed climbers seeking out the shade on the Lower Highway sectors, including Crags Against Humanity around milepost four.

Our objective was further up the hill, near mile marker 18 at around 8,000ft on Mid-Mountain. Jim and Eric had been developing a new sector, The Headstones, in what sadly turned out to be the final installment of their prolific partnership. Jeanne, Eric and the local climbing community had come together to erect a commemorative plaque in this remote and beautiful spot, and we wanted to pay our respects.

Stunning views to the south into Mexico.

… with the distinctly shady Headstones sector in amongst the striking pinnacles.

Access is down from The Boneyard sector where a 200ft scramble down a slab and loose gully lead to a decent traversing path (skiers right) to the foot of the crag. Having a rope is highly advisable and some kind soul has left one in situ around a tree – but be warned this is only 40m long.

Jim’s plaque

Despite the cold, it was only fitting to repeat one of Jim’s routes in his memory. Perhaps Jimbo Love would have been most appropriate, but a straight 11 would have been a stiff “warm up”. Instead we did Jack and Thrill, an outstanding 10b/c directly above the memorial – a fine mixture of crack, corner and face climb and well deserving of its 3*s

Having sampled The Headstones and paid our respects, we were drawn by the allure of the sunshine on the opposite Ridgeline sector

We did Mogenhead, 5.8, and Glowing in the Distance, 5.9, before the sun left the crag, and it was fast approaching beer-o’clock. Time to toast “Absent Friends” at the excellent The Barnyard.

By the way of a contrast, Eric suggested we check out the newly developed limestone venue: The Farmhouse, about an hour south east of Tucson. This half-mile wide escarpment sits directly above Hwy 82, and it’s remarkable that it has only been recently “discovered” – a bit reminiscent of Tierra de Nadie in Valencia, it must have been hiding in plain sight for many years. The similarity to TdN doesn’t stop there, with plenty of rope-stretching pitches on sculpted rock, with welcome shade on a northerly aspect, it’s a stupendous venue.

The approach path splits soon after the road and we took the left branch towards The Prow…

… zigzagging up the well-made trail through yucca, occotillo and prickly pear.

There were a couple of teams already in action on the adjacent Bowling Alley sector:

We warmed up on Welcome Wall…

… the first bit of rock you arrive at, with You’re Welcome, 5.8:

… and Always Welcome, Never Invited, 10a…

… before heading rightwards into the natural amphitheatre of The Coop.

Prize Rooster, 11a, is an aesthetic open corner (book) which only succumbs to thoughtful bridging (stemming) – outstanding!

All Cooped Up, 10a, is also excellent, with a reachy crux around 2/3 height.

Further right, on Bowling Alley Main Wall, Strikes and Gutters, 11b/c is another stonking line (once I’d been assured that the aggressive bees weren’t in residence in the half-height hueco – the sight of the epi-pen stashed at the base had given me pause for thought!) Steep!

Fab crag, and with a hundred routes already and huge scope for more it’s set to become a destination venue. Not a bad setting either.

Some errands the next day put further climbing on hold, but we did have time for one more encounter with the local climbing community before leaving Tucson. CASA, the Climbers Association for Southern Arizona were hosting an evening slideshow at the Tucson Hop Shop. Fascinating insights on emergency backcountry first aid from a former military paramedic turned climbing ranger will hopefully never be called upon…

…. washed down with some great local IPAs.

Sadly it was time to tear ourselves away from our temporary Tucson base and Jeanne’s marvellous hospitality, with a thousand miles to cover to our homeward flight from Houston. We’ll be sure not to leave it so long until our next visit.