My relationship with Ellen’s Geo has been a slow-burn affair. From a bird-infested, wind-blasted, no-route recce in 2021 to last-year’s broken rib convalescence, I’ve departed utterly enchanted but somewhat unfulfilled, and desperate to return. Paul didn’t need much persuading.

With the couple of HVSs showing signs of birdiness, the obvious entry route (it would be demeaning AND inaccurate to say warm-up) is So This Is Summer, E1 5b, a stupendous route which takes an improbably STEEP line up the centre of the crag.

The day didn’t get off to a great start when I forgot to take the ropes down (Muppet! – First time in 40 years, honest!), but a quick lap on a micro-traxion soon had that sorted…

Steady climbing up the brilliant sandstone corner (Great North Road by the seaside)…

… lead to a stiff pull and sudden urgency as you pull through the roof into the conglomerate zone.

A passing RIB full of tourists were taking pictures as I tied in at the base, and a shouted email address yielded the following brilliant photos from an unusual perspective – big thanks to Wayne and Carol Grantham

Back down to the same ledge, Paul set off up Hundreds and Thousands, E2 5b and a much stiffer proposition – especially the first 20ft…


Here I am following…

Meanwhile, another team had arrived (much to their surprise and ours – it’s not a place that attracts crowds!) Here’s Iain abbing down So This Is Summer…

… to do Towed in the Hole, E4:

Meanwhile, Paul and I headed down to do Strata Gem, E3 5c, which takes the straightforward lower groove just right of the centre of this shot…

… before difficulties kick in with a shallow groove…

… and increasing urgency powering up the headwall. Stunning (if a bit imbalanced)

Here’s Paul following up the headwall.

Shirtless and sweaty in the far north of Scotland – who’d have thought it? We determined to do the next route in the shade, as did iain and Niall – here on something in the vicinity of Fracture Clinic.

Paul picked Toad in the Sole, E2 5b, as Paul said: “Funky moves to get into top groove”. Not quite as immaculate as the other routes we did but certainly 2*s.

Not a bad day at the office!
