The biggest frustration from my Caithness Convalescence trip last year was having to watch a succession of the Sheffield crew climbing the immaculate Spummin Marvelous, E3 5c at Sgaps (a.k.a. Geo of Creagan Righe) whilst nursing my broken ribs. It’s a striking line, and the easiest way up this plumb vertical and otherwise blank-looking wall…

… tucked into the confines of the narrow, atmospheric geo.

A return trip to complete “unfinished business” (actually not even started!) was one of the motivations for heading north. It turned into something of a Caithness Comedy Climbing Caper, as first I managed to forget the wires (discovering my error about 30ft up having sprinted the initial steep section with just a couple of speedily stuffed cams). I managed to pull them up with one hand and teeth whilst hanging from the other arm (didn’t want to compromise the send!) but got so distracted that I veered rightwards into the adjacent E5.

My wilting forearms were further tested as I dithered beneath the overlap, unwilling to commit to the stiff pull. Up-Down-Up-Down, giving myself a hard time for being such a wuss.

Eventually my internal dialogue finished… “Come on Dom, how hard can it be. Someone on UKC said…”

… which is when I realised that the line of chalk I’d abbed down was about 20ft to the left. Doh!

Reversing my cul-de-sac diversion (still not weighting the rope, but now pretty much spent) I finally got back on route and just about held it together to top out. Hard to think of a better E3 anywhere (though I wouldn’t recommend my variation). By coincidence Iain and Niall had arrived to witness the performance and I was greeted by deserved banter: “I was impressed seeing you jump on an E5 as your warm-up” and “so, have you done this climbing lark before?” LOL.

Nothing else at the crag for wilted arms so we headed a mile or so down the coast to the Stack Area at Mid Clyth. A 15mins wander down to, and along, the coast and you reach this central section of these extensive crags. If you’re looking for the “Stack” as a navigation beacon you’ll be disappointed – it’s a low-lying platform out to sea, however the situ rap point (best backed up with a big sling) can be fairly easily spotted on a ledge beneath the clifftop, just south of the obvious corner. Here’s the view from there.

… and the view from the foot of the crag.

The rap line goes more or less straight down Sprockletop, VS, and here’s Paul on the adjacent Two Lost Souls, E1 5b (short but TOUGH, as we found with all three routes we did here!)

Further south, we just about managed to access Inset Wall via a separate ab (no situ stakes or gear) onto perilous high tide ledges (very wild sea!) Theatre of Cruelty, E2 5b takes in some very steep ground on some remarkable jugs, and Mug’s Game, HVS 5a, isn’t for mugs!

Lovely spot, with curious seals for company and a sound track of crashing waves and seabirds.

We returned a couple of days later, with Paul fancying a crack at Spummin Marvelous on the sharp end. You get a good impression of the initial steepness from the shot below.

Iain and Niall were also back, “having a look” at God’s Gift, E7 6b, with the raging swell making for a particularly atmospheric belay spot.

Meanwhile, I headed down to try Deep Joy, E4 6a, on the far left hand (seaward) side of the wall. The meat of the route is getting through the roof, where a positive attitude and moving quickly will pay dividends. The jugs in the break are pretty seepy but good holds soon come to hand. The top wall is cruisy and I was chuffed to notch up a first E4 lead of the year.

We topped out in time to watch Niall’s very smooth ascent of God’s Gift…

With a couple of hours of a glorious afternoon to spare before we needed to start the journey south, we popped into Latheronwheel for a quick look and a warm-down. Seemed rude not to, having spent a couple of peaceful nights in the harbour (don’t forget the donation box!)

Our arrival coincided pretty much exactly with high tide, which combined with a wild sea, meant that even the “non-tidal” sectors were totally sodden. We did manage to bag a final couple of short routes – the excellent Guillemot Crack and Fall Out. Both HVS and only 10m but they really pack a punch! Here’s John and Nicky on the former.

We broke the journey home with an overnight stop, just north of Inverness, and some marvellous hospitality from Dave. This was followed by a very relaxed and enjoyable session on the nearby Mound…

Fab six days on the East Coast, and on the back of my Aberdeen break with Jake, a great illustration that you don’t have to head out west to find a land of adventure!

Footnote: Geo of Creag an Righe and Ellen’s Geo are both quite recent developments, featured in the brilliant “coffee table book” Great Scottish Seacliffs” and in the recent SMC / Wired selected climbs guide. The latter has a topo but no route descriptions so it’s well worthwhile referencing the excellent online SMC database at https://routes.smc.org.uk/ which includes written descriptions and also some additional routes. Well done SMC!