Pottering around Purbeck

Helen has been out of action with a back strain for a few weeks, and was ready to start on a very gentle rehab into walking and climbing. Any plans to resurrect our abandoned Scotland itinerary were washed out by rain.

Instead we headed south to Dorset and the Isle of Purbeck – perhaps the most reliable weather venue in the country?

First stop Dancing Ledge

It’s a long way to come to climb stumpy routes in a quarry,

… but the outlook beats Horseshoe, the weather is better and the rock quality is surprising good in places.

Short bouldery routes are my anti-style, but even so, some of the grades are sandbags, epitomised by The Trade Route, 5b LOL!

Neighboring Hedbury is similar

Quite enjoyed Of Mice and Men, 6b

Winspit at least has some slightly taller routes, with some striking lines – the shattered looking rock is often better than it looks, welded together by flowstone.

Here’s Helen on Tom’s Patience

… and me on Unseen Ripples of the Pebble, 6b (or E1 5b for a trad climber!) and worth it’s 3*

Rest day with the hordes at Lulworth Cove

… and Durdle Door reminded us why we don’t do rest days!

I took my boots down, thinking I might cause a stir by DWSing through the “door” but couldn’t figure out the route.

A side trip to Portland and the Blacknor crags reinforced previous impressions that the sport climbing is way superior there, though the clifftop ambience is a bit lacking.

Easy to forget the housing estate you parked in when you’re sharing a sea-level crag with spectating seals. Fallen Slab is an absolute delight…

I had a decent attempt at Pining for Glossop, (great name) and Dirty Cow, both 7a – the latter would be reasonable if it had a couple more bolts – 4 in 16 friable metres is daft.