You might have spotted a recent slow down in posts, and a corresponding brevity. That’s probably a relief to many of you, but for anyone missing the more regular outpouring I apologise – I seem to have found myself in a new job (or rather role – the word “job” implies some remuneration!)
It’s a huge privilege to find myself in the “hot seat” and I am deeply honoured to be “the Members’ Champion” within the BMC, but it’s certainly keeping me busy!
Don’t worry – Rock Around The World isn’t going to change into the President’s Blog (I’d hate to bore you with the minutea!) but here’s a bit of the role which I’ve managed to combine with some actual CLIMBING! I’ve spent the last few weeks trying to attend as many of the BMC Local Area meetings as possible. This is where “the rubber hits the rock” (or maybe “boot hits the fell” / “crampon hits the ice”) – local volunteers and members coming together to discuss what’s important in their patch: access issues; crag clean-ups; local events / festivals and fixed gear policy for example.
Having spent the last few weeks in the South West…
… I couldn’t justify the 9hrs round trip to join the crew in Exeter, but having taken in some of the splendour of the Devon and Cornwall seacliffs it was reassuring to catch up on zoom and meet some of the dozens of access volunteers who help us all to enjoy climbing there. Huge kudos for their efforts!
Next stop The Lakes – not the greatest weather, but Paul and I managed to squeeze in a couple of routes on Raven Crag Walthwaite.
Tritus and Protus are both brilliant HVSs – steep climbing on surprisingly positive holds, and plenty taxing enough in the damp.
Happily it perked up in time for the Lakes Area Annual BBQ meet in Patterdale, and what a friendly, sociable bunch they are.
The fine weather spilled over into the next day and we settled on a visit to the North Crag of Castle Rock of Triermain. This spent much this century as a no-go zone due to the impending plummet of a HUGE chunk of the upper clifftop. Gravity finally won that battle some years ago, taking with it a few famous routes, and leaving others scarred, but gradually climbers have returned to report that much of the crag is unaffected.
We did Harlot Face and Angel’s Highway (both E1)…
… and quite steep with it
… then the brilliant Triermain Eliminate in one long, sustained 40m pitch. No shortage of climbing and not a giveaway at E2 5b. We finished off with the classic Overhanging Bastion, running pitches together. The bottom two are a bit dirty (but entirely doable), probably due to lack of traffic
Strangely, the main 5a pitch is in great nick (and no easier than I remember it from well over 30 years ago)
You do need to exercise care at the top of this pitch as there are some big stacked “Jenga blocks” that you need to negotiate (ideally) without touching! Take care, you’ve been warned!
Talking of Big Blocks – these are the house-sized rascals that were previously the top of North Crag Eliminate. That’s one Hard Rock tick I’m glad I bagged fairly early!
Not quite BMC duty, but the call went out over the weekend for volunteers to head to Egerton Quarry near Bolton for a photo shoot for the new guide (you know me – any excuse to dress up in a brightly coloured T-shirt!) The actual “shots” are being closely embargoed so as not to spoil the fanfare of what’s looking like a sumptuous guidebook, but here are a couple of snaps I took to give you the vibe.
With all the guidebook activity, many Lancs venues, including Egerton, have been getting plenty of attention and some cleaning TLC – Get on ’em!
I lead Cherry Bomb, the classic Eggy VS, Silk Cut, a decent E2 5c, The Disappearing Chip Buttie Traverse (what a name!) looong E1 that might be worth E2 for the thin middle 10ft, and followed Eli up Chalk Lightning Crack, E2 5b (great lead and nice to see the big green cam put to use – first outing since Hollow Flakes on Salathe!)
Brilliant to meet the gang and kudos to Matt for his enthusiasm and powers of persuasion!
Back to the BMC Area Meetings and almost home territory in the Peak. Great to catch up beforehand at Stanage with Ben who is making a documentary on a CAC fundraiser, plus Andy also along for the Peak meeting. Absolutely scorching but no one’s complaining after the summer we’ve had. Ticked off the usual classics from Black Slab…
… across the Trinities…
… and onto Narrow Slab.
Some great pics from Ben’s drone, giving a rarely seen perspective on Stanage. Packed Peak meeting in Grindleford – hard to tell whether that was the High Tor Bolt Chopping debate, the great slideshow or the free chips. Great fun either way!
With the sunshine continuing into the weekend the day called for a bit of altitude to escape the heat and some remoteness to steer clear of the crowds. Jim and I headed up onto Kinder Southern Edges
Upper Tor Wall is well worth it’s top 50 status (and tough for HS)
Hikers Chimney is well described as “another kind of HS” and Hitch Hiker is a scrattly struggle at VS. Heading further right to Nether Tor, Moneylender’s Crack must have been cleaner when it gleaned it’s 3*s.
Wrapping up the Area Meetings rounds (or at least the f2f ones) I headed over the border for a pre-meeting session on “God’s Own Rock” aka Almscliff.
I got the grand tour under expert guidance from local Martin. Traditional Climb, Bird’s Nest Crack, Demon Wall, Black Wall and South Wall Traverse…
All that grit action worked up a fine thirst for a very well attended gathering in Otley. Plenty of access updates and discussions about festivals topped off with an El Cap Slideshow (not from me I hasten to add). Great Yorkshire hospitality and craic.
Not quite the same weather the following day, but Jake was keen. Late start after watching the Women’s semi final in the Olympics climbing, but we hadn’t missed much as we arrived at a grey and drizzly Malham.
Might have been better off bolt clipping but we’d come for trad and Jake made easy work of Wombat, E2 5c, declaring it amongst the best Pennine / Peak limestone routes he’s ever done. Fine effort in the damp and harder than I remember it from way BITD. That turned out to be a token YECTOYD but you can’t complain about an Almscliff – Malham Double Bill.
Home in time to catch the North Wales Area Meeting on Zoom. Five down, three to go for a clean sweep. Already hugely impressed with the amount of volunteering effort that takes place at the grass roots of BMC activities across the length and breadth of the country. Thanks everyone!
RockAroundTheWorld 