Weather and other commitments have frustrated my plans for a final push to complete the two remaining gaps in my Hard Rock ticklist. The cruddy weather has allowed a bit of reflection on the 59 routes I have done in the great book, recalling who I did them with and recollections of memorable days. This yielded a somewhat unwelcome fuzziness around Malbogies – the Avon Gorge classic. I was pretty sure I’d done it, but couldn’t quite remember with whom. Cross-checking with the obvious suspects from that period in my climbing career (late 80s to early 90s) – Helen, Jim and Nick – yielded a blank (or at least equal fuzziness). Better safe than sorry – I decided to add an ascent (or repeat) to my to-do list.

Whilst the other two (The Scoop on Harris and South Ridge Direct on Arran) are a long way from home, the wrong side of a ferry and with long approach walks, at least Malbogies is handy. Three hours drive and 5mins from the car, I could bag an ascent in a mini-break (day trip if needed). Bill’s visit to Turkey kiboshed a possible Scoop window but opened up the possibility of a two day SW hit with Jim. Game on!

The Gorge could be twinned with Stoney Middleton – glorious history, regional forcing ground, famous lines – or part-quarried, noisy, polished hole – take your pick. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but I’ve never been disappointed by a visit. The half dozen other teams on the Main Wall suggested I’m not alone with my glass-half-full perspective.

Here’s a leader nearing the end of the first pitch on Malbogies later in the day:

After a bit of a brambly approach, the climbing kicks in immediately, with a straightforward but not over-protected slabby groove.

The crag rears up and the steepening is out flanked by a few tricky moves rightwards and continues diagonally without a huge amount of gear.

Here’s a close up of the other team approaching the belay.

Pitch 2 pulls over a small overhang – unlikely looking for 4c until you find the promised good hold (it is there, honest!) The remainder of the pitch maintains interest and it’s worth keeping your wits about you for the slightly loose top out (though the shiny new stakes – thank you BMC 😉 – are reassuringly solid looking!)

Not overly polished (by Peak standards) but no pushover for HVS. Undoubtedly worth 3*s and its “Big Book” status. Had I done it before? No idea, but I certainly don’t begrudge the repeat if that’s what it was.

Of course Hard Rock isn’t the only coffee-table ticking bible available, and I’m also working my way through Chris Craggs’ 100 best Limestone climbs, with about twenty to go. Giant’s Cave Buttress, a 10mins stroll down the Gorge, features in Limestone and is deemed worthy of another 3*s. Uninspiring from below, for once you should judge this book by its cover.

Giants Cave Buttress on the left and the more impressive Suspension Bridge Buttress on the right.

An even more brambly approach leads to a rather broken route with three polished and poorly protected cruxes and a lot of ledge shuffling inbetween. I’d suggest skipping and walking another couple of hundred metres for  the better fare on Suspension Bridge Buttress.

Urban cragging has its attractions, and I’d recommend the very fine ales and pizza on offer at…

Hopping across the Severn and across the border, Wynd Cliff is another blast from my climbing past, not visited in 30 years. Far more peaceful than the Gorge, but every bit as polished, it’s a lovely sunny spot with a gorgeous outlook. I’m pretty sure I’ve done the classic VS, Questor before (also featured in Limestone)

… and it’s twin Cadillac…

But I certainly hadn’t done Zulu, E2 5c, which was excellent – somewhat pokey start balancing nicely with a technical finish on better gear. Excellent!

Meanwhile, in other “obsessive ticking” news, the passage of a Big Birthday means I’ve finally hopped off the treadmill of trying to tick 50 7as each year. However, that leaves a gap in my life for an arbitrary age-related goal, so I’m trying out 60 6cs for size (partly because I’ve been studiously avoiding that grade for a decade, and partly because the goal will ideally keep me going until I’m 70! I can dream can’t I?)

A first post-Birthday sport foray to Sticky Mix Wall on the Ormes with Andy.

This yielded a good day out but zero notches on the clip-stick. Rough Rider, 6b+ is excellent

… but I’ll have to come back when sport-fit for Rocky Road 7a and the eponymous 6c.

Fab spot…

… and an ideal stop off for the journey’s Raison d’Etre – the Black and Tans 70th Birthday Bash.

A visit to Masson Leas with Helen yielded similar results (though we were sweating it out on the sunny side on the hottest day of the year). However, I got the scoreboard off zero with a follow up at Colehill with Cruisin’ for a Boozin  6c.

Another glorious day in the short-lived Indian Summer saw a jaunt to Yorkshire for a visit to Attermire Scar. Shorts and shirtless for the what seemed like the first time in a long time. If you thought the Escarpment Sector was worked out then check out the latest edition of the Yorkshire Sports Supplement – the team are still plucking out gems. Helen worked her way through a number of the newer offerings including Belepheron

… and Black Mischief:

… and I managed to make a dent in this month’s worth of my target with Lockdown, 6c, Of Puppets and Puppeteers, 6c+, and C19, 6c. Grand day!