Owens River Gorge is just a few miles outside of Bishop and at a much lower elevation than the last few crags we posted about. Depending on your point of view it’s either the highest concentration of quality sport climbing in California (possibly in the States), or a pile of choss in a post-Industrial wasteland. Both might have some truth. The climbing is a bit spread out across isolated quality buttresses and there is some fragility to some of the volcanic rock (which led to the 100% bolt ethic), and the lower gorge is dominated by pylons, pipework and a hydro station. However there are some stunning routes, and a LOT of them, and away from the central area it’s quite a scenic spot.

By coincidence, we’d last visited EXACTLY 20 years ago, to the day! At that time you could drive all the way down the gorge to the mid-gorge powerstation, so we were a bit put out to find it’s now a mile and a half walk, especially as we’d misjudged the temperature – it was uncomfortably hot just to be in the sun, let alone climb in it.

Cental ORG now…

… and then:

We stopped in the first bit of shade – Here’s the view onto the toasty side:

… and did Valley 5.8, a 10a up this curving crack (the joke being it would only be 5.8 in The Valley.)

A bit further up the gorge, Castle Magic is a brilliant 2-pitches 5.9+. Another hundred metres or so takes you to Pub Wall…

… where I watched a local lad do Hungover, 11b, which merits 4*s in the definitive guide (he’d clearly done it a few times!)

Absolutely brilliant, if a little fluttery with only 8 bolts in 30m.

The adjacent High Sobriety, 11a, is even more harrowing – same number of bolts and another 5m of climbing! 

With the temperatures staying toasty for a few days we headed higher (see the earlier post):

… before returning when the Big Chill blew in from the northwest, dropping temperatures by about 15C and bringing a light dusting of snow on the tops.

Heading down into the gorge would be really quite welcome…

Quite a contrast to our previous foray – from shorts and Tshirt to double belay jacket and beanie in the space of a few days.

We climbed at various spots in the lower and central gorge, trying out both approaches (there’s a steep descent directly down to Pub Wall which is probably the best for that sector and upwards – the grim write up is largely overstated – there are good steps for the most part).

We did another trip down memory lane with High Seas, 5.8, on Warm-Up Wall, now…

… and then:

And here’s Tash at 11 on the adjacent Clip Junior:

Fear of the Black Planet, 10a, has a stellar 11b extension: James Brown. Done in a “one-er” it’s a pretty major undertaking (getting on for 50m!)

Black Ice, 10b, was good but covered in crud. I persevered onto Inner City Youth, 11d, the 4* extension, but that was unclimbable. There must be a seasonal run-off that affects them.

Accessing the sunny west-facing side of the gorge requires a bridge crossing (assuming the water level is anything but its lowest). There are various “bridges” from ad hoc fallen trees to more substantial affairs engineered from tied-down planks. One of the less wobbly ones is just downstream of Big Tower…

… giving access to this and Pink Face. Here’s Helen on Anonymous Bolter.

… and Muppet Show, 5.9:

I did the excellent Exit Stage Left, 10a and IMAX, 11a, which takes the sunlit arete on the right of the shot below.

There’s another decent plank-walk just upstream of Diamondback.

Chukas Gonna Chuk is a great 5.9

… and Shadow Plan, the 10b up the arete to the left is worth it just for the pictures.

No pics of Full Moon Fever, 11a, on the wall around the corner, but probably the best of the bunch.

All that climbing, over the space of three days, worked up a thirst, and the Mountain Rambler Brewery was on hand to slake it…

Of course, Bishop is just as famous, if not more so, for the Buttermilk bouldering. Helen fancied a rest day so I thought I’d check it out.

These boulders are BIG – some the height of Stanage – and are quintessentially what a child would draw if you asked them to sketch a boulder. They have a pleasing fractal relationship with the surrounding desert, strewn with any number of similar shaped but tinier versions. These are (I think?) The Peabodies (50ft diameter). Grandma and Grandpa contain some of the Buttermilks’ proudest problems including Daniel Woods’ The Process, V16!

After an hour or so playing I had to admit that I was massively ill-equipped for this game: physically, emotionally and in terms of kit. I’m a puny trad climber who relies on stamina and guile for the modest sport ticks I manage, and none of those skills come into play here. The easiest way up (which were the only problems I was attempting) was typically the easiest way down, and a man with ankles as fragile as mine has a sensible inbuilt survival instinct – especially with no pad and no spotter.

I’d set myself the target of half a dozen V0s before I allowed myself to quit, and lived to tell the tale. If V0 sounds pathetic (and in the grand scheme of things it is!) the left overhanging arete below is the classic Hero’s Roof, V0.

So is this (from a sit start)…

… and this…

… Oh bugger, that’s the easiest way down 😦

Beautiful spot, and perhaps with a tonne of sponge, a posse of spotters and some cooler connies (it was scorchio!) I might make it to V1 on a future visit!

… anyway, kept me amused whilst Helen caught up on her Yoga.

Our base for these few days was another blast from the past – we’d stayed at the Pleasant Valley, aka The Pit, Campground on our Big Trip when it was a free, undeveloped climbers’ hangout.

The BLM have done it up since, but it’s still only $10 a night, and the surroundings are still superb (especially if you bag a spot up on the rim).

Not a bad view from the office! #digitalnomad #WFH

Saturday morning brought a bigger than expected crowd down in The Pit…

… and chatting at the crag later it emerged we’d stumbled upon the Bishop Craggin Classic climbing festival. Tickets were sold out for the main jamboree that evening, but we blagged our way in playing the “Brits in town” card. It’s quite a big affair, with most of the major brands represented in tented stalls, various fun games and competitions, and a disco.

I popped on my CAC beanie and set out on a schmoozing mission to spread the word and try to recruit some new brand sponsors (lots of warm words – we’ll see if they firm up once the beer evaporates!)

I did manage a couple of shameless CAC selfies with two of America’s best known climbers (and maybe CAC Ambassadors?) . Thank you Chris…

… and Brooke

With the cold snap over (at least for a week or so) it was time to head further north and higher. More fab scenery along Highway 395

… and a glimpse of the 3rd Pillar of Dana and memories of a sub-plot to an early episode of Bill and Dom’s Excellent Adventures:

Onwards to Lake Tahoe…