Rockaroundtheworld is branching out from the usual Spanish and Greek winter haunts to spend the early part of 2025 in Italy, so Benvenuti! Why not buckle up and join us!

Freezing weather across northern Europe had the pedal firmly pressed to the floor as we sped through France, Germany and Switzerland and through the Gotthard Tunnel and into Italy. Previous trips have been blessed by the occasional weather window for a stop off in Oltre Finale, but no such luck this time, and we blasted all the way to San Marino in 48hrs before finally finding sunshine. We cracked the spine on our new Calcare di Marca guide and picked Civitella del Tronto as an option to break the journey – only half an hour or so off the main SS16 East Coast Autostrada and literally roadside. What’s not to like?

Aaargh! – it was closed for road repairs. 😦

… but as “urban” crags go, it was in a pretty spectacular spot, just a hundred metres or so through this ancient archway. One for a future visit.

We pressed on further south into Puglia, the South-Eastern-most part of the country, running down from the pronounced “lump” on the “ankle” down through the “stiletto heel”. There are half a dozen crags around Foggia, near the aforementioned “lump” which might be more properly referred to as Gargano.

Palombaio – the only place we bumped into other climbers, and just as well because the exact parking arrangements are a bit ambiguous in the guidebook. Taking their lead, we parked on the edge of an olive grove, though that is contrary to one set of guidebook instructions. When in Rome… We tailgated the friendly group along the edge of the grove…

… past a dilapidated farmhouse and over an improvised stile, hidden amidst some spectacular prickly pears.

The path becomes more obvious, leading along the edge of a gorge, to bring you to the crag in about 10 minutes.

The rock looks quite blocky and “old skool” on first acquaintance, and I was fearing a polished horrorshow, but the holds are solid, prickly and positive. Timoteo, 6a, felt a good but stiff warm up, whilst Nonna Abelarda, also 6a up the arete on its right was even better and a tad easier.

Further left, the crag features some impressive orange caves.

A couple of 25m 6bs take the bulging rib to the left of these: Impariamo dalle Favole (excellent!) and Cavallo Pazzo (a bit manufactured!)

Here’s Helen on Baby Sitter, 5a, which traces a long line up the far left of the crag.

… and the view of the whole crag from the way down at the end of the day.

Olimpo – there’s a long escarpment dominating the skyline above Manfredonia (sounds like a 70s tribute band) with seemingly a lifetime’s worth of potential cragging, but somewhat surprisingly only one developed crag. Olimpo e Valhalla.

The parking is down a narrow, gravel lane and you’d be hard pressed to turn around a lengthy vehicle. Stop just before a junction, where both roads are blocked by stick and chain gate constructions, and head through the straight ahead gate.

Follow the track for a hundred metres or so until a junction, take the left fork, and you will soon see the crag and an obvious path across a slice of bucolic heaven, accompanied by the clanging of cow bells (some of them on sizeable bulls!) 10mins from the car.

A crag of contrasts, with prickly grey slabs flanking overhanging orange territory with the odd tufa, and routes up to 30m.

The bolting is excellent – comfortably spaced (as with all these crags) and brand new – (with evidence of a previous replaced generation of kit). Despite the convenience of the crag and it’s obvious age, the routes are largely unpolished.

Helen on one of the 5s on the right.

Me on the excellent but tricky arete of Alcesti, 6a

I had a struggle / flail on a couple of the orange routes: Babilonia, 6c, good but tough, and Leda e Il Cigno, 6b, satisfying despite some drilled pockets to take you through the blank bit.

Ripe Rosse – Torre del Porto – The hills rise steeply into Park Nazionale del Gargano behind the coastal town of Mattinata, and are home to a couple of varied crags. The most easterly of these is clearly visible from across the bay, though it’s only the upper part that is open for climbing (the more extensive lower crags being banned for rockfall – at least from what we could glean from Google translate).

The parking spot is up a steep, unlikely looking narrow track (not shown on Google Maps)

… but does indeed lead to a magnificent parking spot, with panoramic views and a well-cairned path heading down over the back of the hill.

5mins and you are there:

Only about twenty routes, but with a spread from 5a to 8b there’s something for everyone! We warmed up on Via dei Solisti, a long diagonal traverse and possible candidate for the world’s hardest 5b. Things weren’t looking good! Nonetheless, I hopped on Peppa Pig, 6c+, which takes the obvious twisting groove line up the centre of the crag (cutting through the previous route), and nailed it, much to my delight and surprise.

It was perishingly cold in a stiff breeze, and the NW aspect doesn’t allow for a lot of sun, but there’s a shorter sector at the far right of the crag that faces more fully west. Here’s Helen on Un Sasso Tira l’Altro, 5c and I managed the very bouldery but fun Raponzolo Marino, 6c

Monte Saraceno – The first of the crags that you come to from town are perched above the sea and accessed from one of two hairpins. Belvedere does indeed have a good view (including of Ripe Rosse) and climbing on three sides of a rocky promentary. Short routes on pockety rock, with options to seek sun or shade (or in our case, hide from the howling wind!)

Here’s Helen on Spirlonia, 5c

… and Stella, 6a.

Further round on the shady but sheltered side, I did the short, sharp A Modo Mio, 6c.

There’s a path that links the two hairpins (marked with red painted cairns) to drop down to sector Pozzetto (which means well) but TBH it’s easier to drive. We nipped in for a look, to find the exception to the pockety sharp rock we’d been enjoying for the rest of the week. This crag has the classic north-facing curse of white compact rock with a bit of dusty surface. Ventimilaleghe, 6c, stirs a seriously steep corner crack into the equation, but luckily there are a few finger jams to aid progress. My luck ran out when these did, and I bailed onto the adjacent 6b as the rain started. Not our favourite crag, but it would probably be a haven of coolth on a hot day.

Logistics:

Our base for these crags was camping Lido Salpi Manfredonia, a beachfront campsite that is open all year (unlike most)

Crashing waves to lull you to sleep, a sea view

… and a very acceptable beach.

The crags are all accessible within 15 to 30 minutes from here (plus another couple we didn’t get to) and all for only 15 Euros a night. Bargain! You could have a decent week here and not go to the same crag twice…