The final stop on our Italian Job was Tuscany. Whilst we’d been bathing in largely unbroken sunshine in Sicily and southern Italy (ironically, as had much of Britain!) the north of Italy had been in monsoon season – with news headlines of flooding in Florence, and our campsite choice limited by some being still under water. It looked like we might not make it to Tuscany at all, but a four day window opened up right at the end of our trip.

A chance encounter with Ben and Caryl at the New Big Depot (definitely THE place to be seen as we entered 2025) had tipped us off about the crags around Camaiore, near Lucca, north of Pisa, so that was on the itinerary. However, chilly weather and lingering dampness had us prioritising full-on south facing, easy access crags, and a local search threw up some conglomerate options. Regular readers will know that RockAroundTheWorld likes a bit of “pudding” so we went to explore.

The conglomerate crags are on Monte Serra, about half an hour south of Lucca, up a sinuously winding road. Glorious scenery and tourist-brochure vistas. In the shot below, you can just about make out the Settori Bassi (lower sectors) – these are accessed from an obvious hairpin via a very short walk.

There’s a brilliant set of free topos for these and the Camaiore crags (and much of the rest of Tuscany) available at https://www.falesiaonline.it/ (thanks for the tip Ben!)

On a micro scale, the rock is a hard and fine-textured conglomerate (more Mont Dauphin than Riglos, though there are a few bigger lumps). Apparently it’s part of the Verruca Formation, but don’t let that put you off! On a macro scale, the crags are tall with crazy angles and weird formations – short compact walls with occasional huge holes, separated by wild overhangs. The Ramshaw Winking Man has a couple of Italian Cousins here.

This results in a majority of short routes (10 to 15m) and a number of longer excursions that meander through and around the overhangs to 50m and more. Decisa was 30m of fun with a wild, roofy 6a top pitch.

But…

… was the pick of the bunch, with 50m and three pitches of fun climbing.

The far right of the crag has some really sculpted shorter lines including Movimento, 6a+, and Alba, 5b+

Settori Alti (you guessed it – a bit further up the hill) is a bit more of a traipse – you park at the top of the hill and work your way down to the crags. The approach splits, with climbers right being Obi Wan Kinobi.

Via di Chiara is an outrageously improbable 3-pitch 50m voyage at 5b. Almost shades of Meteora.

The opposite side (handy signpost) is Phantasma dell Opera, with a musical theme.

The left side of the crag looks like a conglomerate version of Red Wall but the routes are remarkably solid and not as sandbaggy as you might imagine.

Of course it helps to know the beta: “It’s a jump to the left and then a step to the right…”

Il Mago di Oz, 5b+, was just as unlikely!

Enough conglomerate fun – we also managed a tiny sample of the Camaiore limestone crags. We failed to work out the parking for Plache di Mare, and cut our losses as we only had a couple of hours at the end of the day.

Instead we went to Sector Conchetta, the nearest of the clutch of Conchiusori crags all accessed from the same hairpin parking. We managed to get a couple of routes done to salvage something the day. Su Mago Fritz, 5c (you’re having a laugh!) and Era l’Ora, 6a (old school Peak limestone corner).

Another stunning day called out to “go high” and we set out for the Park Nazionale della Pace.

The write up in the guidebook for Foce Di Compito had us hooked: “The view is sensational: you can enjoy the view over all of Versilia and the Tuscany archipelago from a privileged observation point and immersed in silence.” At 800m, it was just as well it was sunny as the air temperature didn’t get above 8C all day.

Another hairpin parking and a slightly hidden path starts up the right side of a stream before crossing and meandering up the hillside, eventually joining an ancient cobbled path that leads directly to the foot of the crag.

The east facing wall looks very Peak Limestone, and we were still dodging the occasional damp patch.

Ivanhoe, 4c+, looked like a reliable way to get to the top of the crag…

… and sure enough, the vistas were magnificent!

That allowed time for the sun to come onto the left of the crag, where the rock is streaked with distinctive runnels.

Via Degli Allievi, 4b, is a good taster (and I confess to straying onto it when attempting Grandine, 5c – saved the ultimate sandbag of the trip until last!)

Destro o Sinistra, 4b, offers a choice of finishes, as advertised.

As you’ll have gathered, this is no place to bring your ego if it is feeling at all fragile, but for a magnificent, tranquil spot with a real “mountain feel” it’s definitely worth a visit.

Also worth a mention is Vecchiano, which is Pisa’s urban crag. We only dropped in for a recce, and whilst it is obviously a former quarry and no doubt a tad polished as one of Tuscany’s oldest and most popular crags, it actually looks pretty decent – one for a future stop:

Logistics: There are a couple of campsites in Lucca which are open outside the main season, and we based ourselves at Al Bersaglio – a friendly spot, within walking distance of this renowned walled city. There’s a really good “local” restaurant, Du Palle, a few hundred metres walk away – two courses and a bottle of wine for about £30 for two!

Shout out too for Quinto Senso, in a country full of brilliant bakeries, this was voted top crag food destination of the trip!