Brilliant to re-launch the BMC’s International Climbing Meet after an eight year gap (another victim of Covid that’s taken a while to get back on its feet). With the hiatus we decided to run a “British Isles” pilot this year prior to a fully international event in 2026, which is how Helen and I came to join about ten participants each from Ireland, Scotland, Wales and England for a week in the Llanberis Pass.

Of course that’s only a stone’s throw from the best crag in the world (Gogarth, as if you didn’t know) and the stars aligned such that the Rucksack Club Gogarth Meet followed on straight after – a great excuse to keep the party going for an extra couple of days (and particularly handy for the Irish contingent heading home via Holyhead).

Here’s a few pics and highlights from a memorable week…

Day 1 briefing and a short masterclass / refresher for our visitors on some trad and seacliff skills from Calum Muskett and Steve Long.

Early sunshine was forecast to be replaced by rain, so Helen and I skidaddled to Llandudno to explore a couple of recently developed sport venues: Marle Buttress – not huge (16 routes of up to 15m 5b to 7a, mostly 6s) but super convenient and pretty good rock.

… and Upper Empire, a crag hiding in plain sight directly above the town. It’s even floodlit at night. Recently bolted with a few dozen routes, mostly 6b to 7c and up to 30m. Steep and a bit blocky, it seems to be settling down into a popular venue.

Not strictly speaking in keeping with the “celebrating British Trad” vibe, but we did visit on Steve Long’s recommendation that it was “adventure sport”. The Wild Blue Yonder, 6b, is superb and Apricity, 6c, has one stopper move.

Much sunnier in The Pass the next day and a great venue for Helen’s pre-climb yoga

Leaving time for a trip to the Grochan, and a great view down to the Big Red BMC Tent

Phantom Rib is always a delight – here’s Helen leading P2

… and one of the team, Kyle, heading down for more.

Tuesday started gloriously but threatening rain later. Time for a quick lap of Ribstone Crack…

… before the rain swept in.

The perfect afternoon for a visit to the DMM factory. Great hospitality and really good to take a look “through the round window” at the inside of a British manufacturing success story.

… which nicely filled the gap to dinner at Plas y Brenin, followed by a hilarious and terrifying slideshow from Nick Bullock: Truly, Madly, Steeply.

This featured epic adventures from Alaska to the Himalayas, but also closer to home on Pen Llyn. We were assured that not all Llyn encounters matched Nick’s exploits on Craig Dorys, which is how we came to be lured to explore some of the recent developments on the north coast granite.

Magnificent weather as we met up with Eilir, our enthusiastic local expert, and Thomas and Johnny at the Yr Eifl carpark. We managed to squeeze all five of us into the truck for the final mile climb up a gravel track to a handy parking spot.

… from which a gentle downhill saunter, followed by a more vertical plunge through bracken…

… brings you to the top of The Bastion.

Like a number of crags hereabouts, discovered with the help of a drone, this looks like vertical grass from above…

… but turns out to be top-quality rock (especially after extensive cleaning efforts).

Topo here courtesy of Eilir

Here’s Johnny on the Rampart, E1 5a with the direct finish.

Eilir and Thomas setting off up Slab Princess, E1 5b

… and me on the superb upper slab of the same route.

… and me nearing the top of Spearhead, E1 5c

Nicely worked up a thirst for a swift beer at Y Fic in Llithfaen

Hotter still the next day, and the wise bets were on the Mot or Cyrn Las, but I’d been keen to climb on the Cromlech all week. We did Dives Better Things (here’s Helen on the first pitch)

… followed by Gates with the E2 direct finish. Here’s Jock on his ascent earlier in the day.

Great vantage point for pics of Simone on Left Wall.

Friday was hotter still, and with the weekend at Gogarth approaching we decided on a rest day – a chance to kick back and relax along with Alex and Nick who had been masterminding proceedings throughout the week.

Brilliant to be able to host a bunch of such enthusiastic climbers coming together in The Pass, and witness so many friendships being made and new territories being explored. The team psyche and support led loads of people to push forwards their trad leading grade.

Over the course of the week the team managed to climb over 14,000m of ascent, totally crushing the 8,848m equivalent of Everest to raise funds for the Climbers Against Cancer Nepal appeal.

Of course, climbing itself doesn’t pay for doctors in Nepal – it would be great if you could share this picture and the justgiving page on your socials to encourage donations https://www.justgiving.com/page/bmc-cac-everest

Very excited for next year’s event when we plan to invite climbers from all around the world.

Here’s Helen’s reel for a one minute version of a great week:

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Scorchio over at the Valley of the Rocks campsite on Holy Island, already filling up with arriving Rucksackers and boosted by a dozen or so from the International Meet.

A different story the following morning as a drizzling start made for an extended breakfast in the South Stack Café, but just as a tea overdose threatened (and a possible mutiny) the sun made its appearance. Teams sped off to the more accessible destinations: Holyhead Mountain and Upper Tier, and we joined the throngs on Castell Helen.

Plenty of routes to go around, and Helen, Nick and I did Pel…

and Northwest Passage.

Assembled at Porth Dafarch beach for some post-climb yoga.

Meanwhile, BBQs were fired up and volunteer burger-flippers recruited to feed scores of hungry climbers…

… and the traditional bonfire and marshmallow toasting.

Blustery and a bit threatening on Sunday, but that didn’t deter a few Main Cliff teams and plenty of Upper Tier action with ascents of The Strand, Fifth Avenue and Strike.

I nipped down to tag on the end of the rope with Andy and Bob, and ended up doing Northwest Passage again (beggars and choosers…)

Here’s Nick and Andy on Rap.

Safely back in the café before the drizzle turned to a drenching. Another Gogarth Meet (something like number 23?) We had just short of 90 Rucksackers, International guests, Pinnies, friends and family over the course of the weekend. Gogarth delivers again! Same weekend next year – 20 & 21 June – get it in your diary before you forget!