Čikola revisited

We’d planned to cross into Bosnia from near Zagreb, to enter the north of the country and explore the climbing in some kind of logical sequence. The weather had other ideas, as it so often does, so instead we diverted down the coast, staying in Croatia, for sunnier climbs / climes at Čikola. This had been our favourite find from our 2022 trip…

Development has continued over the subsequent three years, with an extra hundred or so routes and a few new sectors. There’s been a new Croatia guidebook since our 2022 version, or 27Crags is a good source for the additions.

One difference from our last visit was the dry rock – we’d had to deal with a few showers and damp patches previously.

Here’s a quick update on the new stuff, or at least the bits we visited, either end of the main Sector Osoje.

There’s a new chunk of about sixteen routes at the left / West of the crag (imaginatively named Sector 0 – Predosoje). This is accessed by a short path which starts about 80m east of the signpost, which leads down a ramp line to provide the shortest access of any of the climbing hereabouts.

Here’s a view of the crag with a visiting climber redpointing Kad Zamirisi, 6b, and easily identified by the permadraw.

We started on the first / leftmost route, Cvit iz Kamena, 6a, and almost sacked the whole sector. Happily we persevered, and I did the majority of the rest of the routes – all good to great, though tending to be a bit cruxy.

Roma Koma, 6a, and D&T, 6b, were probably the pick of the bunch, and I also sketched my way up a couple of the 6cs. Here’s a shot of me on D&T…

… and one of me modelling the CAC rope bag and matching T.

The dry weather opened up a few of the central sector routes, characterised by rope-stretching pitches on off-vertical rock. Here’s Helen on Teton…

… and Zig

Don’t be distracted by the bushiness – these are good outings.

Towards the right hand of the slabbier central Sector B routes, things get thinner and more tenuous. Garo was a REAL sandbag at 6a, though very good (happy to read a UKC comment to that effect from Jake’s visit). Really chuffed to manage the full 50m of Branco I Danguba extended, 6c – especially managing with only 15 draws for 30 bolts!

Further right again, beyond what’s documented in the 2022 guide, there’s another couple of dozen routes, with a smattering of cracks and corners to give some strong lines. Kaicu Stari, 6b, would be a decent E2/3

… and I enjoyed the nearby Joka, 6c, but got totally shut down on Ouzo Cruzo, also 6c.

Good perspective from the far end of the crag of the whole of Sector Osoje. With the latest developments, you could easily spend a week here if you fancied a sun-rock trip away from the usual honey pots.

… and that’s before exploring the adjacent Krka National Park – sunset over the lake at Skradin, viewed from Camping Krka (recommended). Wouldn’t be surprised if we drop in again on the way back north.

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