The Morača Canyon winds its way northwards out of Montenegro’s capital city, Podgorica, slicing its way through the limestone geology to reveal mile upon mile of climbing potential. Development began in 2006, to create Smokovac (or ‘Smoki’), the country’s premier crag, and a few other spots have been added since, yielding well over a hundred routes, but that’s barely scratched the surface.

Our base for exploring was Autocamp Titograd, handily located within walking distance of the main Smoki area (you can drive about 700m nearer if you can be bothered). It looks to be an idyllic setting, but the scenery is slightly offset by the proximity to the road and train line (though the recent construction of the A1 motorway through tunnels above the valley floor has presumably helped with the former). Nonetheless, we spent almost a fortnight here, and it’s very much the climbers hangout – for once we don’t feel like the weirdos in bright clothes and belay jackets.

The main Smoki crag sits on the opposite side of the river, and is mostly west facing, though its concave shape allows you to choose sun or shade from early afternoon. The routes run to around 35m and the main dish on offer is tufa.

Most of the Balkans seems to have a preponderance of dogs – not so much “stray” as “unattached” – they seem generally friendly and well-bahaved. We were adopted by one such fella, who kindly escorted us for the 20mins walk to the crag…

… and then waited obediently…

… before escorting us back at the end of the day.

The first sector you come to (confusingly sector E) is untypical, being vertical grey rock, but has an abundance of good edges and climbs better than it looks. It also has the easiest routes (though that’s not saying much!)

Talking of which, I’ll re-post links to the guidebook resources here:

There’s a dedicated website at https://topo.climbers-heaven.me/#climbing-in-Montenegro and even better a free app version here: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ilija97.montenegroclimbing There’s also lots of bits and pieces of information across the web, including 27Crags, TheCrag, 8aNu, Mountain Project and UKClimbing – a pick and mix approach will usually fill in the gaps.

Kosto, 4

Aj sa Srecom, 5

Good Luck Ivan, 6a+, is the pick of the bunch and not to be missed (and unusually, isn’t a complete sandbag!)

The tufa kicks in on Sector D just around the corner. It’s comparable in quality to some of the more renowned euro-cragging honeypots and sees a fraction of the traffic (and is so far largely unblighted by the demon polish).

Grades are stiff – you could comfortably add a letter (though most of the easier routes are quite punchy 15m affairs, and maybe don’t play to my strength, or should I say expose my weakness!) The first pitch of Sin City was a good workout at 6b, and the 6c extension proved a stretch too far:

Molto Bello, 6b+

At least Punoglavac, 6c, had a no-hands rest halfway up.

Things steepen up on the remaining sectors further left (which catch the sun a bit earlier) with most routes in the 7s and low 8s, with the odd filler-in for mere mortals.

Here’s a German lad trying quite hard…

Great view along the start of the Morača Canyon, and down to the campsite…

… which is a good vantage point to pick out some of the newer sectors on the sunny side of the valley.

You could walk from the campsite (about a kilometre) or park in a small pull-off just beyond the sawmill.

Kula is a slabbier sector of grey rock – not destination climbing, but with five routes from 4 to 6a it provides a welcome clutch of easier fare. Approach up a vague path directly above the parking spot, passing a faded topo sign, and follow the bushy path up and leftwards to the foot of the crag in less than 10mins.

Dubak, 5

Veliki Mis, 6a (Big Mouse) – we also did Mali Mis (Little Mouse) 🐭

To reach Dementia, start from the same parking and head boldly along the road…

… until a faint trod heads steeply up the grass bank (mild jeopardy should you slip here!) and then bushily along the base. Another half a dozen routes here, and my brief recce suggested this couple of lines either side of a fat tufa looked like they might be a fun filler, but probably didn’t merit a return visit.

Stomping another 15mins (pinch of salt?) gets you to Wonder Wall, but this is very much wad territory, mostly 7b+ to 8a, and probably not worth the schlep for the couple of 6cs I might (or might not) have been able to manage. If you are strong enough, it does look like a stupendous piece of rock.

Back at the campsite, it’s a pleasant sunny spot, ideal for a spot of yoga (cat pose anyone)…

… with the sound of the river gushing below. Here’s Helen enjoying her birthday breakfast coffee.

Immediately behind her, the concrete slipway drops down to access the water (it’s also popular with paddlers) and yet more climbing. Sector Titograd isn’t extensive, but it is pretty handy.

Unfortunately we never got to find out about the quality as it was submerged for most of our stay, following the day-long monsoon that scuppered our Kosovo climbing plans.

We do love a camping spot where you wake up to a view of rock from the roof window above our bed. The glint of a bolt and some scouring of the Internet revealed this as Sector Dr Olja (thank you Mountain Project). Another one to explore should we return, and who knows how many other chunks of rock in this magnificent gorge will have been developed by then?