Kotor cragging

With a four-day monsoon forecast to hit Montenegro we had the option of spending the remaining dry day at Bar or moving on for some further exploration. We opted to twist rather than stick, but then got waylaid by horrendous roadworks and then further kiboshed by the closure of the tunnel just before Kotor. Dropping down from the “over the hill” route, you at least get a birdseye impression of the magnificent Kotor Lake before being immersed in Škaljari, the touristy town at it’s foot.

Following the coordinates in the guidebook, we pulled into the car park next to the bus station – not your typical crag parking, but a look skyward suggested we were in the right spot.

With a bit of haggling, we managed to negotiate the €25 all day parking fee (or €5 per hour) down to €15, but as it was gone noon it was something of a pyrrhic victory (these are van rates – cars are €2 per hour). At least we were assured that the van was being securely guarded.

It’s another “visible from a mile away” crag, with the orange overhanging wall of Sector Boneyard calling out “climb me”.

Not entirely obvious how to get there – you start up the right side of the dry water course at the foot of the ravine…

…before crossing to the left side immediately after a ruined house (looking back to check out the cruise ships in the bay).

You skirt the foot of some crumbly orange walls before exiting the ravine leftwards via a scramble path and the occasional cairn and tatty fixed rope.

We side-stepped Boneyard to warm up on yet another imaginatively named Grey Wall (a recurring theme of the trip!) Not destination climbing, but decent rock and a good length. Mutton Bustin’ up the left hand side is a 30m 5.

The main event is the Boneyard…

… named for obvious reasons…

A couple of dozen routes, 6b to 7b, though take the grades with a pinch of salt. Even the warm up, Luda Spilja, felt pretty full on for 6b (another recurring theme!) The t-shirt says “Climb like Tom is watching” – I’m afraid I didn’t ;-(

At least the tunnel closure had a redeeming aspect, prompting us to follow the narrow bay-front road around the head of the peninsula. Absolutely stunning scenery, and for once you can see why this is a fixture on the Adriatic cruise itinerary.

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