Wadi Rum, in Jordan, has been on my bucket list for almost three decades. Initial awareness and inspiration were prompted by an ad hoc slideshow from the Tony Howard, the original developer of much of the climbing in the area, and author of the definitive guidebook. Tony was briefing Andy and Debbie before their planned trip and the images and stories left me with a definite sense of FOMO. The seeds were planted, but were a long time in cultivation, and finally sprung to life when Andy suggested a return trip (his fourth) for a bit of winter sunshine. Meanwhile, Arnaud Petite had featured a number of Rum routes in Parois de Légende, so I had even more incentive to go. It was an easy sell!

The attraction of winter sun, desert landscapes, and big trad adventures sparked more than just my imagination, and it was a band of eight bleary travellers, Rucksackers and friends, who finally assembled at Luton Airport for the pre-dawn flight to Ammen. No lost bag dramas, and our smiling minibus driver was there as planned to whisk us on the 3hrs 30 drive to Wadi Rum. Arriving after dark at Hamand’s Bedouin guesthouse, the full moon picked out the surrounding rockscape and gave a hint of what awaited in the morning.

We checked into our accommodation – metal-framed, fabric-sided “tents” with comfy beds – and then assembled for dinner.

Chicken and rice with vegetables and fresh salads – tasty, wholesome and filling (though worth mentioning that chicken and rice did feature quite regularly on the menu over the coming days…)

The following morning, the full majesty of the landscape comes into view. Towering sandstone rock faces dominate both sides of the Wadi and extend as far as the eye can see in both directions. The village itself has grown massively since Tony’s early exploration, and now sprawls somewhat scruffily (with more development in progress) but it doesn’t take the shine off the stupendous setting.

A dose of common sense prevailed (Andy and I pushing back a foolish notion to jump on Hiker’s Road – see later post, lucky escape!) and we all set off for objectives on the East Face of Jebel Rum, a 20 to 30mins walk from town.

Andy and I set ourselves the modest ambition of Black Magic for my first taste of Wadi Rum sandstone. 300m and 8 pitches of D+ or TD- depending on the guidebook (probably HVS 5a once you are tuned into the rock). Sustained climbing at around V / V+, on good rock up the middle of the Dark Tower, visible at the far right hand of the East Face.

Fairly obvious approach, keeping to the right of the drainage…

… until just beyond the tower…

… and the cutting back leftwards to the start of the route. 29.585376° N 35.414030° E Clearly marked by a herd of goats, but also a huge boulder that you start behind.

Pitch one heads up an overhanging cleft formed where the boulder abuts the wall – you can solo this to belay from its top, but it’s a stiff pull. You then traverse rightwards to climb a long diagonal crack.

P2 is a horizontal walk of about 25m (we thought nearer 30) to belay beneath a red wall plastered in giant pockets at whichever spot you think might be the easiest to climb.

Fairly straightforward but mildly harrowing (especially if you aren’t tuned in yet) climbing leads to a ledge. P4 is up another long crack system.

P5 is another “walk” (back leftwards this time) and we chose to do the slightly more modern variant which heads across to an obvious zigzag crack (subsequent research suggests the original “easier” line, which cuts the corner, is quite runout and exciting).

Commodious stances with a sumptuous view at every belay.

P7 is another belter up a very obvious natural line.

… and P8 is more of the same, with a slightly trickier move in its upper reaches.

You can scramble for a couple of further pitches to the top, but this is the last equipped rap station so most people seem to turn back here. Magnificent views over the town to the Jebel Um Ishrin Massif.

… and down to Hamdan’s where a brew of mint tea is hopefully waiting.

Top tip if you have 60m ropes is that from the top of P6 you can rap directly downwards to the ledge (rather than diagonally to the tree mentioned in the guide). From here, just to your right (looking out) there’s an alternative rap station (new tat at the time of writing). It’s a rope-stretching 60m rap down to the P1 stance, from which a final abseil gets you back to your sacks, avoiding the scrambling on the original descent (and the need to carry shoes). This also gives you the opportunity to re-admire the P1 rap point and realise that the reassuring bolt isn’t backed up by a thread but by a couple of jammed knots! LOL

Wandering back, we could admire the rest of the team at play on the routes nearer the village (Inferno and Goldfinger)

… and also wonder at the exploits of the Polish father and son team, also staying at Hamand’s, who were projecting an 8b+. Kudos!

A first route in Wadi Rum, no dramas or stuck ropes, and a bit of a sandstone refresher. Ready to see what adventures Day 2 will bring!