More scouring of the Internet threw up another interesting sounding crag in the vicinity of Gandía, and only 15mins from our base at Camping Escalada.
Ròtova might only have about 30 routes, but there’s a good spread of grades from 5 to 7b, and up to 30m, easy access and a sunny, sheltered aspect. The latter two factors making it an ideal spot in the blustery conditions – so ideal, we made a couple of trips!
The approach is well described on UKC… There is room for about 3 cars to park at the end of the track. (38.9304886, -0.2670538).

There is a sign naming and pointing to the crag and a named PR footpath along baranc blanc.

Walk along the track and follow the yellow and white PR markers up left, back right until an obvious access path to the crag on the left. Approximately 10 minutes from the parking.

For added convenience, there’s a topo sign at the foot of the crag, and one or two extra routes mentioned on Thecrag and UKC if you are struggling to count bolt lines.

Here’s Helen on Rotovator, 5c

… and Galleteres, 6a…

… and Juanita Melero, 6a+…

Here’s Mike on the upper part of the same route where it gets a bit jungly before a fine finale on immaculate rock.

Perhaps the classic of the crag is Vesprades d’Estiu 6a (maybe worth a plus!) – here’s Justin approaching the crux steep moves out of the cave…

… and me at about the same spot from a different angle (thanks Mike for the photo)

The centre of the crag steepens to offer a crop of stiffer routes in the 6c-7b range, with Terra Lliure a really good and pretty steady 6c.

I had a go at Nasti de Plastic, 7a, which had a beguiling groove in its upper part, but failed to spot the 5m blank section on sharp monos!

Pity, because Justin got some great pics 😦

Fared better on A Mamar Mamó 6c.
Still a few routes to make a return visit worthwhile, best saved for another breezy day. Meanwhile, Ròtova is just one of half a dozen new (to us) crags detailed on the excellent Club Alpi Gandía website https://clubalpigandia.com/zonas-de-escalada so there’s plenty more to come back for!
Hi Dom, looks a good little crag, how long are you in Spain for? We are on Mallorca from the 7th to 14th March if you fancy a ferry ride over to join us. There is overnight parking near our hotel which George Hosfroth used last year
cheers Chris
Thanks Chris – we’re meeting friends near Granada so might have to give the Ballearics a miss this time. Have a great trip and catch up soon 🙂 Cheers, Dom