We’ve had a few days at Chulilla over the years – Smitten with the fantastic rock architecture, but never really getting much out of the climbing – many of the more manageable routes are really polished, and the grading is “old school”.
However, Chulilla is now very much THE Place to Be. Huge development of new routes away from the immediate village has opened up a feast of climbing and the hordes from northern Europe (including many Brits) attest to the fame. The new guide even has a symbol for “Old School” grades to help massage bruised egos – though it would be better to just regrade the horror shows!
After our dismal recce a couple of months ago, everything has changed. The sun is out, so are the crowds, and the bars are open!
First stop is sector Lamentations – the huge wall that makes a backdrop to the main village crags. Awesome 35m routes on rock that’s generally just off vertical, but very sustained. Fun route of the day was Presis Crack – an appalling off width anywhere else, but a joy of relaxed bridging here, with the assurance of the shiny bolts.