More climbing in the Jemez Mountains

We were so enchanted by our trip to the Jemez Mountains that we had another couple of days there. Only a 30 mins drive from the gorgeous Juniper Campground at Bandelier,  passing the Caldera, wasn’t to shoddy a way to start the day.

Upper East Fork is a newly developed area, tucked away from the road in a sylvan wooded valley. Crunching through heavily hoar frosted grass (pretty chilly at 8,500 ft) you arrive at sun blasted rock. From duvet to shirtless climbing in 10 seconds!

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Great climbing on generally good, though occasionally scrattly, rock. Here’s a route named after one of our favourite beers back home – I wonder if the first ascentionist knew there’s another arete climb called Pale Rider in the less beautiful venue of Horseshoe Quarry!

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Great spot but a salutary one – I threw myself at three 12a s and they each threw me straight back off!

Next day to the roadside crags of Gateway and Cattle Call Wall. More great climbing in an amazing setting.

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Turning the aspiration level down a notch I managed three 5.11s before lunch, but the route of the day was this fantastic striated cracky wall…

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… looks and climbs like tufa but actually rhyolite. And only 10.b

Climbing achievement of the day (and possibly trip!) went to Helen for leading a 5.10c / d. Awesome!

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