More climbing in the Jemez Mountains

We were so enchanted by our trip to the Jemez Mountains that we had another couple of days there. Only a 30 mins drive from the gorgeous Juniper Campground at Bandelier,  passing the Caldera, wasn’t to shoddy a way to start the day.

Upper East Fork is a newly developed area, tucked away from the road in a sylvan wooded valley. Crunching through heavily hoar frosted grass (pretty chilly at 8,500 ft) you arrive at sun blasted rock. From duvet to shirtless climbing in 10 seconds!


Great climbing on generally good, though occasionally scrattly, rock. Here’s a route named after one of our favourite beers back home – I wonder if the first ascentionist knew there’s another arete climb called Pale Rider in the less beautiful venue of Horseshoe Quarry!



Great spot but a salutary one – I threw myself at three 12a s and they each threw me straight back off!

Next day to the roadside crags of Gateway and Cattle Call Wall. More great climbing in an amazing setting.


Turning the aspiration level down a notch I managed three 5.11s before lunch, but the route of the day was this fantastic striated cracky wall…


… looks and climbs like tufa but actually rhyolite. And only 10.b

Climbing achievement of the day (and possibly trip!) went to Helen for leading a 5.10c / d. Awesome!

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