Hueco Syndrome and Malice in Bucketland

…just a couple of the fun route names here…

What is amazing is that on two of the three days we climbed we were the ONLY roped climbers. Everyone else was toting a huge crash pad or two!

The climbing is fantastic! The Hueco holds come in all shapes and sizes and yield steep jug hauls and more balancy, fingery face climbs. The  “sports” routes are quite serious undertakings, with sparse bolts and huge runouts, giving memorable, character building routes. Sea of Holes was almost 300ft of 5.10b/c climbing with 7 bolts!



We did about a dozen of the most classic routes, each of which was excellent, but then caved in to peer pressure – I couldn’t leave without giving the Bouldering a go. A rented mat on my back I set off to find some stone to send!


Bumping into some friendly locals, who happened to be Box Canyon officianados, I was given the tour. This included the “Best V2 in the World! “: Nobody here gets out alive.

The start involves lying on your back, locking both feet into huecos in the roof, and levering yourself up to get some handholds. I surprised myself!




Even Helen couldn’t resist. ..


2 responses to “Hueco Syndrome and Malice in Bucketland

  1. Hey you two. Still having lotta fun I see. I went to HT once, at thanksgiving in 1995.Did Sea of Holes. Yeah, spacey bolts. Brilliant route.

    • Managed to add to the excitement by only having one 70m rope for two 150ft raps. Happily we squeezed down on the stretch, but it was quite some time after the sun had disappeared over the horizon!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s