We abandoned Reguchillo in rain, and headed east, but not before finding a tiny gear shop on the outskirts of Jean (NOT in the centre! ). Got lucky with the boots – they only had about half a dozen pairs in the whole shop, but one was the make and size I lost!
Re-booted, we were back on the road, but were reluctant to arrive back in Valencia too soon; keen to continue our exploration of new crags in Andalucia. We’d originally planned to visit Cacin, near Fondon, about 80km inland from Almeria, on our west-bound outward trip, then fortunately realised that it is at almost 1,000m! This was the freezing day we spent climbing by the coast in double duvets, so it would have been full ice gear! Second time lucky.
Skirting the north of the Sierra Nevada we left the olive groves behind for high pastures beneath snowy peaks – the major crop seemed to be windmills! Dropping down from a high pass we arrive at a charming campsite at Almocita, about 20 minutes from the crag, with great views across the Sierra Nevada.
The crags are about 30mins walk up in a deep gorge, with sectors on both sides allowing for sunny or shady climbing. The main event, sector Sobre El Vivac is the first one you come across, and gets the sun until about 3pm. Very pleasant.
Obviously too hot for the local Spanish team who arrived at about 3pm for a warm up in the last of the sun before throwing themselves at steep 8s in the shade.
We were somewhat sandbagged into ‘Barbara’ a tough 6a warm up, and found the 6b next door easier.
I then had a heart-breaking failure on the last move of an outstanding 7a+ Esclavo de los esperiencas, before a more successful effort at F###ing Crisis,7a