We’d gazed down on this major crag from the lofty viewpoint of Elona, a week or so earlier. Clearly in full sun with what looks like a major traipse. A bit of cooler weather and the hope that the altitude might take the edge off the heat encouraged us to make a visit.

The access is via a very well graded ancient path and lives up to the guidebook promise to deliver you to the crag in about 20 minutes. However, it was already pretty toasty when we arrived. It’s an interesting crag that alternates orange tufa sections with grey slabs, making for a good variety of styles and grades. 

We warmed up on Porto Lenidi, 6a, which was worth its 3*s. I was keen to get on Ramasca, a 20m “musical note” 6c+ with an extension to rack up Super Ramasca,  a 40m 7a+. The start takes an overhanging, tufa filled corner with a a tricky move to pull onto a wall and then up to a little roof. A vestige of shade made the lower section just bearable, and I got to the midpoint lower-off with enough juice in the tank to press on for the “super” tick. This overcomes the roof to pull onto another single tufa system which then runs into pockets and a final crimpy pull before the chains. Really pleased to get that one in the bag! Here are a couple of pics of an Austrian guy making a smooth ascent just afterwards… 

We moved back onto the grey stuff, with mixed impressions. Here’s Helen looking the part on “Elegant”, 6a, which was pretty good. 

However its neighbours “Elephant” and “Vatsina” were really poor – snappy holds and dirty rock. 

More options up in the cave… 

… but by then we figured we’d earned a beer! 

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s