Dyserth Castle Quarry

The usual trawl through cragging locations on the Met Office weather app made pretty sobering reading: damp, dull, chilly. The only prospect of climbing was on the North Wales coast – the problem being THAT, not surprisingly, most of it faces NORTH.

Enter Castle Quarry – not far from the fleshpots of Rhyl and Prestatyn, this 25m limestone slab offers a sheltered oasis that catches any sun going – good friction on slightly crumbly rock. Shame there are only the 5 routes on the LHS (all 6a to 6b+, 20m+ and sensibly bolted) that are really worth doing, so of course we ticked all of them.

Here’s Helen and me taking turns leading the bizarrely named Llywelyn ap Gruffydd to Neil Crud, 6b

And Helen on Tegengle, 6a

Not a bad return for a chancy day’s dash to the coast: a couple of 6as, a 6a+ and a 6b in the bag. Who needs Leonidio?

2 responses to “Dyserth Castle Quarry

  1. Your team keeps managing to get the routes in dispite poor weather over there.
    We are next to Meteora on a new limestone crag called Theopatra look up web climb theopatra rained last night greatfull for the rest

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