The crag just keeps on giving… As well as the imposing main face that overlooks the parking area, there’s a bit round the corner that faces east and so enjoys the benefit of afternoon shade (in the 3/4 of the year when you’re desperate for it!) With the weather picking up and a impressively (for us) start we were able to nip up and enjoy some sunny morning climbing.

The routes are generally a bit shorter than on the main crag, around 20m, on VERY sharp rock and with a good spread of grades.

Here’s Helen on Kokomat, 5c

Perhaps the route of the crag, which we didn’t do, is Mavros Kartharias, 6c+ which takes a route past a huge pocket and a painted-on shark!

Instead I had a decent go at a couple of 7a+s – both with first halves on razor-sharp but otherwise easy ground followed by crimpy upper sections. Astropos stopped me at the very last move (if there’d been a draw on the anchor I’d have got it)

… and I managed a slightly contrived repoint of Ypsili Piesi as I couldn’t be bothered to repeat the scratchy bottom 15m.

Helen enjoyed Kataplias

… and we both savoured the views down to the sea

This is a place we’ll be back to visit again in the future – magical!