Leonidio – Love Ledge

This is a newly developed sector on the Theos escarpment, another couple of hundred metres beyond Theos Right (along and gently DOWNWARDS. which isn’t completely obvious from the guide). You can see it arrowed in the picture below

It’s so new that the guidebook says: “Consider the grades as suggestions since not even a handful of climbers tried them”, and there’s certainly a bit of unevenness – with the trickier routes we did being generally (but not all!) soft touches. I’ve included comments below in brackets if different. All the routes we did were pretty good – 15m to 25m on vertical rock with crimpy and sometimes prickly holds. Easier routes at either end (5+ to 6b) and tougher in the middle (6b+ to 7b).

Starting from the left:

Helen warmed up on Lucky Luke, 5b (more like 5c+)

Here’s Helen on the adjacent Tsaurouxi, 6a+

…and Chris on Tsaurouxi and Helen on White Line Fever, 6b, which (unsurprisingly) takes the excellent line just left of the white streak (clearly visible from Theos)

Here’s Justin at more or less the same spot, with Jim topping out on Lightning, 6b (probably worth a +)

… and again with the bay in the background

Right again is Da Vinci Code, 7a (probably fair – very crimpy crux through the mid-height bulge).

Beyond that, the wall turns more orange and a bit steeper Justin and Chris thought Gory and Stay Hungry were both good and about right at 6c. A couple of routes further right and you get two very soft 7bs: Words of Wisdom (7a max) and Dirty Lies (maybe 6c+).

A bit further is Into the Fire, 7a (maybe 6c+) and Desperate Sex Wives, 7a+ (and well worth it, unless I missed something!)

Here’s Georges, a Swiss climber who Jim teamed up with, just completing the crux moves on Into the Fire

Great day’s climbing, with a few soft touches to massage the ego – had me humming “Love Shack” all the way back to the car…

The love LEDGE is a little old place, where we can get together…
Love LEDGE baby, yeah!

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