Beeston Tor

Where in Provence are we?…

Okay, it’s a trick question of course, and the title is a bit of a giveaway, but Beeston is one of the few bits of British limestone that the French would actually bother climbing on. The outstanding pockety nature of the rock offers abundant holds and holes, which can be threaded for bomber gear. It would be a such a crime if bolts were deployed more widely here, as fiddling in the recalcitrant threads is half of the fun.

It’s a reflection of the summer we’ve had that the normal approach from the farm across the river was impassable; the stepping stones being completely submerged when often there’s no sign of any water in the riverbed at all. No big drama to park on the other side and approach from above, and it saves the parking fee (now a pound! I remember it being 20p b.i.t.d. ;-))

Magnificent crag:

Helen and I just had a short visit, pocket-pulling our way up the trio of outstanding E1/2s that breach the wall beneath Ivy Gash: Pocket Symphony, Deaf Dove and Evensong. Fabulous climbing immersed in the bucolic beauty of the Manifold Valley.

… Followed by a pint at The Pike on the way home. Perhaps the French quarantine isn’t the end of the world, after all.

7 responses to “Beeston Tor

  1. Great crag on 2 Routes left for me to do.
    There were a number of consecutive years when the river was never there and thought it had gone to ground.
    must be 30 years since I’ve been there.
    keith s

  2. Hi Dominic
    I haven’t posted here before but have been following your blog for a couple of years. Just wanted to say thanks for all the inspirational adventures, routes and pics you have posted! Beeston is an instant throwback for me as I grew up from age 13 in Alstonefield, Staffordshire. My family are all originally from Leek and I first got introduced to climbing by one of my teachers, at the Roaches over 40 years ago. I really got into climbing when at Sheffield Uni – so many of your posts from the Peak District bring back many great climbing memories from the past!
    Climbing got put on the back burner for 20 years or so when we had kids but your blog has been inspirational in getting me fired back up again, so thanks again for all the effort you put into bringing your adventures alive.
    We now live in NE Scotland, so my local crag is Pass of Ballater. One of my daughters, now just turned 15, has really got into climbing so we are having many adventures together, including her leading her first E1 on Sunday. Such great fun to climb as a family, as I have seen from your many posts with your own family.
    Thanks again for all the posts, I’m always amazed at how much climbing you get done in a year, and in so many fantastic places! Inspirational for new ideas…
    Cheers
    Warren

    • Hi Warren
      Thanks so much for the kind words – if I had to sum up “why I bother” you’ve pretty much nailed it 🙂
      Keep in touch and let me know if you are ever in The Peak and fancy revisiting old haunts! Cheers, Dom

      • Thanks Dom, will do. So many great routes to revisit but i’ll have to get a wee bit fitter to keep up with you guys! – though the climbing wall we built in the garden during lockdown will help…
        and to return the invite – let me know if you are ever in up in the Highlands. Would be fun to meet up and the more reasons I have to get out climbing the better!
        Cheers Warren

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