Helen stumbled on this series of crags on the web, and it gets a 3 carabiner rating in Donde Escalar (out of a maximum of 6) this roughly translates as “well worth seeking out if you are in the area”. We were, so we did… Our trailblazing spirit somewhat encouraged by the better forecast out east, and the fact we’d already visited Santa Ana this trip.
The climbing is spread over half a dozen sectors, half South and half North facing, so an option for all seasons, in the hills north of the village of Castillonroi about 10km over the border into Aragon. There’s an excellent set of free topos which cover the sunny sectors at…
… and TheCrag.com lists over 120 routes, with V to 6b being the sweet spot…
The approach map at the above link isn’t entirely clear (or wasn’t to us at least!) so here’s a trail for the last couple of kilometres of dirt road once you leave the tarmac.
This is fine in a regular car until you get to the last few hundred metres where we were glad of the 4wd and ground-clearance of the truck, but you could easily park sooner and still only have a short walk.
Here’s a link to the location of P1 for the “Amics” sector N 41.8850167, E 0.5518148 https://www.google.com/maps/place/41.8850167,0.5518148
You’ll spot this sign to the Ermita about halfway.
Here’s the view from the first parking P2 with sector Solana on the left and Amics on the right
… and the view from P1 which is just a stone’s throw from the first route.
It’s a really tranquil and pretty spot, with the only sounds being birdsong and buzzing insects, and we only had one other Spanish couple for company despite it being a sunny Sunday.
The longest and probably most interesting routes on this sector are around the point you arrive at the crag, where it forms a “V”. Here’s Helen on the easy but fun Giuseppe, V
… and Calssasses, V
… and a shot of the other team on the latter.
The crag slopes up leftwards with another dozen or so routes from 6a to 7a. These are actually a bit disappointing as although they’re correctly billed as being 20m, the first half tends to be a blocky approach scramble, and they slab out at the top, leaving a steep, thin 5m of climbing in the middle. Oros, 6a+, Boris, 6a, and Marijuli, 7a, all suffered from the same “boulder problem above a scramble” syndrome. In hindsight we’d have been better doing the routes either side of the centrepiece crack, or exploring the more sustained-looking routes on Solana (you can just about make out a climber in red in the photo below.)
Anyway, a very useful addition to the area, with plenty of amenably graded sunny routes in an attractive setting.