Arisaig Sport Climbing – Prince’s Stone and a couple of recces

There are a bunch of small sport crags scattered around Arisaig and we’ve done a bit of recceing on previous visits – these have generally been in poor weather when trying to escape even worse in the big hills, so probably haven’t done the crags justice, but suffice to say we’d never actually got around to climbing on any of them. Another unpromising forecast and another trawl of the Internet threw up a new contender: Clach a’ Phrionnsa (or Prince’s Stone) seemed to have a good write up and plenty of stars on UKC, so seemed worth a look.

You’ll find details in the SMC New Routes supplement here: https://smc.org.uk/downloads/climbs/new-routes-2019.pdf page 212

It’s a slightly involved wander along the shoreline from the Prince’s Cairn parking, accessible at most states of tide, bringing you to the crag in about 15mins.

We arrived to find another team (Ian and Richard) already in situ, and the weather significantly exceeding expectations – sunny with just enough of a breeze to keep the midges at bay.

A dozen or so routes (and a few link-ups and combos), mostly 6s, on great rock in a gorgeous situation.

We did Culloden, 6a+, taking the central corner in the picture above, then Heavens Darling, 5c:

… and The Highland Charge (on the wall to the right), and got this great shot of Richard on the photogenic Jacobite Rebel, 6b.

It’s even more impressive when viewed from the other side – I really enjoyed the extraordinarily featured rock giving fun jug hauling until a sting-in-the-tail a couple of moves from the top. The Last Stand, just to the left, also 6b, is just as good and just as uphill!

Silver Sands campsite is a bit quirky but occupies a stunning location on a golden beach…

Perfect spot for a bit of beach yoga!

… with views across to The Cuillin…

Next day the weather really did bomb out, so we made a slight detour to explore the Borrodale Crags near Druimindaroch. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/borrodale_crags-28857/#overview There’s limited parking at the suggested spot (shared with Black Rock) so instead we parked at a dead end part of the bypassed road and approached along a path next to the burn. See below: seemed legit.

Interesting couple of contrasting buttresses – worthy of a look on a dry day:

Whilst highlighting crags in the area, it’s also worth mentioning Black Rock https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=21122#maps

Doesn’t look quite the quality of Prince’s Stone but would pass a pleasant afternoon.

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