The Velebit massif is the largest (though not the highest) mountain range in Croatia. It sits proudly overlooking the Adriatic, and runs for around 150km down the spine of the country. Perhaps the centrepiece of Velebit from the climber’s perspective is Bozin Kuk, an impressive monolith of white limestone, with routes up to 200m long.
It’s accessed via a 20mins zigzagging drive up from the coast road, gaining almost 1,000m in the process, with spectacular views down to the sea for most of the way.
Unfortunately, Bozin Kuk is covered by a bird ban to protect nesting Peregrines from October through to July (strangely early compared with most Peregrine bans we’ve come across elsewhere in the world, but we couldn’t find a different source of info to check).
Anyway, it makes a proud backdrop to Kamp Velebit, our base for our flying visit. This is a really friendly and chilled place to stay in a van, and also boasts some glamping pods and even some hobbit burrows if you’re a Tolkien fan!
Another bonus is a great Yoga deck:
There are a bunch of other big limestone crags within half an hour or so, which aren’t bird banned, but we settled for the convenience-cragging of the newly-developed Filipov Kuk, just a couple of kilometres from the campsite.
This has been equipped as part of an EU funded initiative which also includes a nature trail and picnic area (sounds like a good idea this EU thingy, I wonder if they’ll let us join?)
We did a taxing 38m 6a, Sluzbeni Quad, which takes an improbable line up the far left “Stari” sector of the crag.
Here’s a Spanish / Polish couple on central “Dom Junaka” zone.
The far right of the crag has a tall, steep tower with a two-pitch 60m 6a up it: Crna Rupa. The topo is a bit indistinct and the top pitch looks to breach a huge roof, but in actual fact it burrows into the heart of the cliff to finish up a 15m hidden shaft. Quite an adventure, and something of a battle against rope-drag as I did it in one huge pitch. Recommended (though better to do it in two!)
Here’s Helen on Mravi Ubojice, which takes the lower wall.
… and the view from the top – there’s even a lake for that post-climb dip!
RockAroundTheWorld 
Hi. Just arrived at Velabit Kamp last night. Heading back north having spent the past 3 weeks in Croatia. We’ve climbed at Paklenica, Omis, Cikola Canyon and Hvar. However, it has been really difficult as most of the crags are south facing and we have had one day of rain and very little cloud. If you’d like any info on any of the places visited re: worthwhile routes, places to camp etc. then please get in touch.
Hi Mick. Sorry to miss you! Velebit is a great spot! Yup, it’s been a tad warm for us too heading southwards through Istria, but it’s a high-class problem! Interested to hear your thoughts on Cikola as that’s our next stop, and also Hvar – is it worth the faff of the ferry? Meanwhile, enjoy the rest of your homewards – maybe some posts from earlier in our trip that might be of interest. Cheers, Dom
Hi Dom.
I would recommend Cikola but it can get very hot in the canyon with little shade.
Recommended routes are:
Garo 6a
Radio Dalmatia 6a+
Sector D comes into the shade about 2pm ish
Dida Bobo 6c+
Slobova Plodvida 6a
Antonija 6b+ (Especially good route)
Sector D also feels like it is very new.
Struggled to find our way to the purely N facing crags.
Hvar will be good in cooler temperatures but a lot of S facing crags and humidity.
Climbed at Stiniva in the shade. Usual suspect Croatian grades. Also some very sharp rock. We got on the island on the shorter crossing from Drevnik: approx £28 for a van but left from Starigrad which was a lot more expensive approx £80. Stayed at a great little spot near Mudri Dolac- very quiet.
We would only go again in cooler weather and stay for longer.
Enjoy the rest of your trip. Think we are off to Misjca Pec tomorrow.
Thanks Mick – very helpful! Sounds like you’re also suffering from some sandbagging, so you’ll be well prepared for Miscja Pec 😉 Cheers, Dom