A few days’ gap in Jake’s shift patterns offered the possibility of a December mini-break to chase some sun and some rock. In a fit of optimism we booked a short dash to Cassis with the main aim of ticking off some of the routes in the Calanques which feature in Parois de Légende. An early flight had us in Nice by 10am and nearing Cassis by one; too late to head into the Calanques (most of the approaches are an hour or more) but perhaps sufficient time for a multi-pitch adventure on the Calanques little-known neighbour: Cap Canaille.

These two extensive climbing areas sit either side of the charming / touristy (you choose!) seaside resort of Cassis, but whilst only separated by about 4km they could hardly be more different in terms of rock architecture. The Calanques are epitomised by immaculate white limestone walls and pinnacles, whereas Cap Canaille (the western extremity of the Soubeyrannes cliffs) has an altogether darker countenance (literally and figuratively). A three-layered sandwich of shaley limestone followed by hugely-featured sandstone, topped off with a wedge of conglomerate makes every route a geological journey. The apparent looseness put off any exploration of these cliffs until as recently as 2003, but thorough cleaning efforts and impeccable bolting by the first ascentionists have created an adventure-sport paradise.

Handy from our perspective, the routes are accessed in 15 to 30mins from parking on La Route des Crêtes which links La Ciotat to Cassis above the Soubeyrannes cliffs (assuming it’s open – note it’s closed in high winds, which aren’t unusual). We plumped for Voie Abert / Devantay on the central Grand Draioun sector.

A 20mins stroll down a decent path (black paint stripes – this isn’t Gogarth Main Cliff) gives you ample time to admire the three-layer chocolate cake of a crag (each layer about 60m high). Our route is just right of the white tower, breaking through the middle whitish triangular band at its widest point.

The first pitch is a wild 6a+ introduction up stupendous steepness but with equally stupendous holds to match – it overhangs about 5m in 30m.

The angle eases off to merely vertical for the 6b+ crux 2nd pitch, but for a critical 5m or so the holds largely disappear leaving a few tricky crimps around a thin crack. Beyond that, things get a bit “Jenga” up crazy featured territory including this chimney.

… halfway and still smiling!

Next up it’s into conglomerate for the final 2 1/2 pitches:

Coiling ropes before sunset with a six-pitch TD under our belts – not bad for an airport day.

Here’s the view of the Soubeyrannes cliffs, with Cap Canaille on the far right hand side, taken from the middle of the Calanques a couple of days later. You can just about make out the distinctive wedge-shaped white layer in the middle.

After a couple of days climbing in the Calanques (see the next post) our final day objective was État d’Urgence, one of the original PdeL routes on Le Devenson, one of the most remote crags in the area. We arrived to turn off onto the Route Gaston Rebuffat for the final 4km drive down to the parking at the Col de la Gardiole, only to find a “no entry” sign (guidebooks suggest access is banned in the summer but OK the rest of the year – clearly that’s changed!) We chose to ignore this, but were flagged down by a friendly local climber who warned us that the policing of the parking ban was fierce, with an 80 euro fine and the possibility of getting locked in. Even from our planned parking it would be a 90mins walk plus 5 raps to access our route, so throwing an unexpected extra 5 miles round trip into the equation (plus the time already spent head-scratching looking for alternatives) meant our contingency for the day was well into negative territory.

Plan B was swiftly hatched: a return visit to Cap Canaille, this time to the most southerly Semaphore sector for the route Vagabond’age, an 8 pitch TD-. A 10mins wander down from the lighthouse parking gives access to a rap station…

… from which 3 raps get you to a path along the foot of the crag, and a further 5mins stroll to the route. Here’s a GPS trace for both routes mentioned to help supplement the guidebook description.

The initial pitch is an evil-looking hanging off-width, but it isn’t too desperate once you’re established (just don’t burrow too deeply into the crack!)

You can just about spot a climber high on the route to the left in the shot below.

Here’s Jake following the crimpy final section of P1…

… and setting off on P2. Be aware that the route crosses a couple of others as it weaves about – you’re mostly following expansion bolts rather than glue-ins if in doubt.

There’s never a dull moment, with all sorts of extraordinary rock features to contend with…

… including a very stiff pull through a conglomerate roof (very well bolted!) and an amazing “time-tunnel” chimney, which leads to a long traverse leftwards and a final pitch through the conglomerate band. We’d almost caught up with the other team on the adjacent route by now…

Fab views over to the Calanques…

… with the iconic peak of La Candelle rising proudly at its centre.

Not a bad consolation prize, and actually both these routes on Cap Canaille feature in the new version of Parois de Légende, so that’s a couple of extra ticks (all be it on quite a bit longer list). Just need to book a return visit for the routes on the Devenson!