The cruddy forecast across the whole of the UK barely merited packing the van, but a month of cabin fever had me gently twisting Helen’s arm to brave the damp and blustery chill. The clincher was the prospect of catching the Pembroke Range West briefing, so there would be a guaranteed consolation prize of a year’s access for more exploration and adventures, even if this visit turned into a damp squib.
Info about the briefing and our previous visit here:
The Thursday evening briefing had the usual random collection of misfits (a term of endearment that I’m proud to include myself in) – climbers being joined by surfers, cavers and fishermen in the groups that are deemed worthy of access.
Next morning, 30 knot winds, high seas, overnight rain and the fallout from one of the wettest Easters on record, meant that dry rock would be at a premium. On the plus side, Helen spotted that the red “range closed” flag wasn’t flying, and a quick call to the recorded information line (very handy: 01646 662367) confirmed that Range West was open! We changed plans to head to the Castlemartin guard house to pick up our passes and a key for Gupton Gate. The illicit thrill of being allowed privileged access “behind the wire” almost makes the actual climbing a bit of a bonus extra!
It’s a long schlep along the beach to Western Walls, especially with a stream-crossing in spate (see map in the post above) – the 50mins guidebook time is pretty fair.
… and we arrived only to realise most of the routes were completely out of the question as the waves were breaking at least halfway up the crag. Happily, we spotted Still Slab, which not only has a half-height ledge from which the routes start, but is also somewhat protected from the raging Atlantic by a rock plinth a little way out to sea. We might just have stumbled on the only climbable bit of rock way out in the wild west.
We did Walking on Sunshine, HVS 4b,
… Katrine and the Waves , S 4a, and Soft, Strong and Very Long, VS 4c.
No one would argue that these rate in the top tier of Pembroke routes, but you’d be hard pressed to find a more exhilarating or memorable experience at the grade in the conditions.
The following day yielded non-stop rain until mid-afternoon, when the weather transitioned from grim to glorious in a matter of less than an hour. The big swell meant that anything near the briney would be a bit too sploshy, but at least the accompanying wind made for good drying conditions. Making the most of the glorious evening required another half-height crag and 40ft Wall was just the job. Another 50m along the cliff, waves were breaking over the top of Juggy Point (despite it being low tide)
… but we were able to bag some very pleasant routes with only the occasional splash of spray.
We did Something Similar , S 4a,
Brahms, S 4a, Liszt VD, Mahler VS 4b, and Rachmaninov E1 5b
Sunday dawned bright but still breezy, and we were amazed to find that we had the whole of Range West to ourselves again when we signed in at the guard house for the third day running. The sea conditions still weren’t conducive for anything with a tidal approach so we set off for the long march to Tilted Ledges, the least accessible of all the Pembroke crags, pleased to match the 70mins guidebook time. Plenty of opportunities to admire the detritus of destruction along the way (always from a safe distance!)
… and mentally adding Pen y Holt Stack to the to-do list when the stars align (spring tide, no bird ban, no firing, low tide, and we happen to be signed off for Range West – don’t hold your breath!)
Arriving at the Iron Age Fort we found one of our possible objectives, Arch Zawn, subject to an ad hoc bird ban.
The good news was that we could access the near part of Tilted Ledge itself through the arch, despite the sea conditions.
The walls really do overhang at quite an alarmingly steep angle!
Full Tilt, E1 5b, takes a leaning groove and crack just right of the big corner in the centre right of the photo above. Excellent, pumpy jug-fest with just one thought-provoking lay back.
With a view to sampling other options we checked out the adjacent Toyland, which also has a sheltered aspect tucked into a zawn.
Sweep, VS 4b, provided some atmospheric chimney fun.
Hopefully we’ll be back later in the year once the bird bans are over, and in more conducive weather, to make the most of our 2024 pass!
RockAroundTheWorld 