If you haven’t already read it, Iain Peters account of the discovery and subsequent first ascent of Right Angle is well worth seeking out – an amusing account of climbing and climbers from back in the day and the genesis of a truly classic route.
Sixty years on, we had the great good fortune to be at the Count House and were roped in to celebrate the anniversary. Iain was especially keen to have some ascents from climbers who’d also celebrated six decades, and (despite appearances) Helen and I fitted the bill.
Another bluebird day, and no hurry to leave the hut before there was any chance of the sun having made its way around into the Right Angle.
Then, when we finally do usher the team into motion, we face the moment of highest peril for the day – will we actually be able to avoid the enchantments of the Gurnard’s Head?
No fear – we pressed on for the coast with immense resolve
Rob, Helen and I roped up as a team of three to dust off the holds…
I’d forgotten what a tremendous line it takes, seeking out a weakness for an airy and improbable traverse into the corner.
The second pitch has a committing step down to find the continuation of the traverse hidden beneath an overlap.
The belay, in a dank and overhung offwidth corner isn’t ideal for three, so I lost no time in heading up the corner, with Helen and Rob hot on my heels…
Meanwhile, James, Mark and Iain were making good progress…
… taking an extra belay just before the step down. Here’s Iain viewed for the clifftop…
… signalling “one pitch to go” or something like that!
Meanwhile, Luke had arrived – keen as ever – and under the pretence of getting some good shots of the A-Team we hatched a plan to do Behemoth, E2 5c, on the wall opposite (the fact that it’s an Extreme Rock tick that had hitherto avoided my attentions was completely immaterial). More of that route in due course – suffice to say in the meantime that it did provide some great shots…
… combined with the photos that Helen took from the clifftop.
… for a photographic record fit to do justice to such an historic ascent. Here’s Iain emerging triumphant at the top of the crag.
Back to Behemoth – The normal rap approach is down the corner of Right Angle but this was clearly inappropriate – not with the team just about to climb it. Instead, we set up an abseil directly down the wall. Heading down first I realised with some mild concern that the end of the rope was bobbing gently in the water, about 6ft from the tidal belay ledge which was sheltered beneath a significant overhang.
I was faced with the choice of an ignominious jumar back up the rope (no doubt to a soundtrack of justifiable derision from the well-positioned audience opposite) or endeavouring to get enough of a swing going to land me on the ledge beneath the overhang, and not in the briny (to an even bigger roasting from the crowd). I rolled the dice, kicked off from the lip as I sped seaward, and pulled off an immaculate three-point landing on the ledge. The groans of disappointment from the spectators above were audible. Phew!
Luke joined me on the dank and gloomy belay ledge, and was soon firing up the crux first pitch. This has a reputation for being wet, often requiring a point or two of aid. It was still a tad smeggy, despite the summer drought, so must be truly unappealing in normal conditions.
Having been robbed of the joy of me taking a dip, the baying crowd were hoping for at least the consolation of my pulling on the gear to follow, but I surprised them (and myself!) by seconding it clean.
… joining Luke on a cramped hanging stance. I set off leading the second pitch following a line of well-chalked holds without really taking my bearings on where I was heading.
Before I knew it I was near the top of Black Magic, E2 5b, staring over at the leftwards slanting groove I’d supposed to be climbing.
Back on track, I almost managed to clutch defeat from the jaws of victory when a foothold crumbled on the traverse into the groove, but I hung on to avoid the plummet.
Beer o’clock was calling by now, so I pressed on to run the second and third pitches together. Cracking route!
Celebrations all round at the Gurnard’s Head, followed by a BBQ on the terrace of the hut and a fitting end to a great meet.
Among the topics for banter that evening was “favourite route name” which was soon followed by “dodgiest route name”, and inevitably ended with a list of some of those which have been rightly expunged from the record. Jollies Route (formerly known by an inappropriate name) at Chudleigh came up, which reminded me I’d never got around to doing this. It’s the first and easiest route in Chris Craggs’ 100 Best Limestone Climbs in Britain (another long-term ticking project) and would be a 5mins detour out of our route on the way home. Keen to break the journey with a YECTOYD (You Either Climbed Today Or You Didn’t) we spent a slippery interval on some of the most polished rock on the planet. Hard V Diff my arse, but an enjoyable way up an imposing chunk of rock and another tick in the book.
RockAroundTheWorld 