A real bonus for Jake of staying in the same place for a week, and within walking distance of some world class climbing, is that it made a “project” approach feasible. On our first day on the Osp crags he “had a play” on an 8a/+ (gets 8a in one guide and 8a+ in another. ..) and managed all the moves in a couple of links on only his second effort. There’s an overlap at around half height which offers the prospect of some recovery on a knee bar, so there looked to be a possible success.
A few days later, after a rest day and with an improvised knee pad (from duck tape of course) Jake made a clean red point after only a few more practice runs – his hardest route yet and in a really short space of time; less than a day of effort overall. Whoopee!
Here’s Jake’s report on UKC
Zadnja Skusnjava consisted of an awkwardly pumpy first few metres before a semi-rest at a very marginal kneebar, then a super powerful four move crux sequence on steep ground before jugs leading to a better knee bar rest, followed by ten metres of just-off-vert techy crimp pulling to a final heartbreaking slap before the chains.
1st go – fell at crux as I couldn’t get the knee bar, necersarry for the first move, to sit with my rudimentary knee pad (duct tape and a kitchen cloth) I’d made for the bigger knee bar higher up. Rested and got the headwall clean which gave me the confidence to want to try again. Came down and moved knee pad up my thigh.
2nd go – knee bar stuck but I’d lost the power I had on the first day for the second move of the crux. Added marginal heel hook into the micro-beta.
3rd go – stuck the crux by the skin of my teeth, catching every hold terribly, but managed to get enough back at the rest to sketch up the headwall. Definitely a step up in difficulty from Aberration, and in only two days. Checked the grade in another guidebook which said 8a+, along with the majority of 8a.nu users. Regarddless of the grade, its definitely progress.