Vertiges de l’oubli – Les Vuardes

Back to the limestone, and another of the mega adventure crags of the Val d’Arve – Les Vuardes is on the opposite side of the valley to Maladiere, and similarly is approached from the top by half a dozen committing abseils – though at least it is possible, though grim, to walk out.

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We chose Vertiges de l’oubli a 4* route in a guidebook that generally only goes up to 3*, and “the best route on the crag” according to the author. He’s right!  10 pitches of ED with the middle half dozen very sustained at 6b+ to 6c+.

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The first 6b pitch sets the scene, taking a diagonal traverse across overhanging territory on square-cut holds on awesome yellow rock. It just gets tougher from then on, turning to super sharp goutte d’eau and steep balancy climbing.

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Stunning exposure guaranteed!

…and superb views across to Maladiere.

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