Frankenstein

With Jake’s visit, a bunch of exciting new crags to explore and unbroken immaculate weather, I’d somehow managed to climb for 11 days on the trot – you don’t need a masters in sports science to realise that isn’t very conducive to recovery let alone improvement, and I finally found the willpower to force myself to take a rest day.

With Helen still keen, having skipped the last day of Jake’s visit, we set off to explore the crags higher up the Daphnon Gorge in search of coolth. 

Great views of Leonidio and the massive Red Wall – Kokkinovrachos which dominates the skyline (that’ll have to wait for a cloudier day!) 

The twisting road up the valley (which eventually takes you to Sparta) gains 800m in about 15km and passes a couple of dozen further sectors, large and small. We parked at the highest of these… 

Nifada (another tufa cave) but instead of walking all the way there, stopped off at sector Frankenstein. 

This mini sector barely merits a mention in the Greek selected guide, and in fairness it only has four routes, so we were half-expecting a scruffy filler-in. However, it’s a really quiet impressive spot with routes around 35m from 5+ to 6a+ on heavily pocketed limestone vaguely reminiscent of the Frankenjura (perhaps the reason for the naming by the German equippers)

Helen did a fine job of dealing with the sometimes spaced bolting 

And pretty much ticked the crag 

Then we trundled back down the gorge into town… 

for a beer and dinner at the climbers’ bar – The Panjika Cooperative, which also publishes the guidebook and plays a leading role in developing the Leonidio climbing scene.

Inspiring view from the terrace… 

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