Pinares de San Antón 

This impressive crag occupies a commanding spot above the coast, just east of Malaga. There’s a south east facing crag above a villa development, but we picked the west-facing crag to catch the afternoon sun and because it looked to have a better bunch of routes.

It turned out to be more like north west facing, and only really started coming into the sun around 2pm, with some sectors staying shady all day – including most of the easier lines. Eliminating a couple of thin and thuggy looking 6bs from our deliberations, we settled on Lacitos, 6b+, for our warm up, taking an orange-streaked wall up the tallest part of the crag – an outstanding route, though tough for the grade.

Further left again I made a short-lived attempt at La Pana Alpina, 7a+, way too bouldery, and a better (though still unsuccessful) stab at Evita, 7a.

By now some of the easier routes were coming into the sun so we finished off with a 5+ and a 6a up steep but juggy terrain. 

Handy topos at and at

Great sunset over Malaga with the last of the sun’s rays slanting through low clouds 

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