Margalef – Can Llepafils

Another bright day and blue skies, but a bitterly cold wind (luck I advertised the meet as Sun Rock rather than Hot Rock!) A couple of options emerged with a big team heading for La Mussara and others checking out Villanova de Prades and Siurana. We banked on the lower altitude of Margalef to provide decent conditions, and went to the Can Llepafils sector.

This is in the main valley at Margalef, but on a tier just above the roadside crags (the upper sector in the photo above. 

We worked from left to right, climbing all the routes on “Sexie Movie” wall (short, polished steep starts and high first bolts make a clip stick a handy accessory). Half a dozen routes from V to 6a+. Here’s Spuz demonstrating the art of pocket pulling. 

More of the same, but more so, awaits on the next buttress, with Puerto Hurraco ranking as one of the toughest 6as I’ve ever done. Somewhat sulkily, I resigned myself to a pseudo rest day of belay and photography duties. 

Further right, the grades became more sensible and the rest of the team seemed to enjoy it more. Helen led a bunch of routes 

And by mid afternoon we were down to t-shirts. Here’s Cec contrasting nicely with the sky. 

Karen showing off her slab skills

And George bagging “just one more route” at the end of the day 

This shot nicely captures the two contrasting styles of the upper and lower tiers (the guy in red in the cave is on El Labotorie where the entry grade is 8a) 

… And finished in time for a beer in the sunshine on the terrace of the bar in the middle of Margalef 

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