Arboli – sector Can Mansa and Simiro and an encounter with a Mighty Penis

That got your attention – and even if it didn’t, it should boost the click count from random Google searches! The “Mighty Penis” in question is a 32m 6a+ at the left end of Can Simiro, but that’s getting ahead of ourselves. 

Day 4 of SunRock dawned bright but breezy, and the team split down the middle seeking the best combination of sun and shelter – half heading to Siurana and our lot to Arboli.

From the same parking spot you can access Placa Duc, a sheltered spot with some unpolished gentler warm ups

… and Can Mansa and Simiro which have a wide spread from 4s to 7s.

We sampled the full range on offer at Can Mansa, starting on Mes por qué vergonya, 6a,

Then upping the ante on the very polished and cruxy Bottifara a Seques, 6b – here’s John showing how it’s done… 

…and the much more enjoyable Capicua, 6c+ and pretty straightforward at the grade on nice crimps and good edges then through a roof on good layaways. 

​Hoping for similarly amenable grading on the adjacent Desvariant La, 7a+, my luck ran out at a very bouldery crux. With an eye on the approaching clouds we moved up to Can Simiro, which in hindsight would have been a better option for the whole day, and I just managed to get in an ascent of the aforementioned 32m 6a+ before the heavens opened. A quick dash down to the car avoided a major drenching as thunder and lightning moved in, and we dried out and warmed up with a beer in Cornudella de Montsant. 

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s