Craig y Clipiau (Moelwyns)

Another warm, muggy day and one to avoid the “fleshpots” so we revisited the Moelwyns for the first time in many years, for our first trip to Craig y Clipiau.

High above the mining village of Tanygrisiau, you zigzag your way up the quarrymen’s spoil heaps to reach this small but attractive crag. It’s clearly “University clubs in Wales week” and it’s good to see another young bunch taking early steps in their trad careers – this leaves us with Brys, a fun HVS up the middle of the crag on pockety quartz which we do in one long pitch – probably worth more than its solitary star.

Just to the right, the combo of Great Feet and Mean Feat gives an excellent E1. Committing crimps on good quartzy holds and only just enough gear enable progress through surprisingly steep territory to reach a small niche at the foot of a steep corner. More traditional bridging and jamming takes over here, with more fun pocket holds to supplement. Great route! Here’s Helen in the corner

Meanwhile, the muggy day has taken a turn for the worse, and the skies are threatening…

We top out as the maelstrom hits and are thoroughly soaked by the time we’ve got to the base of the crag – wet ropes and gear are quickly stashed and then unpacked to steam in the van as we enjoy a cup of tea in the dry. Game over for the day.

A quick search of Park4Night yields a great overnighting spot nearby, with fab views of the setting sun

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