Kastro Thermisia

The weather gods have finally got it out of their system and sunshine is now smiling down on us – what an idyllic spot!Time to dial in the sunniest local crag into the sat nav and finally get some climbing done. The best option looks to be the cliff beneath the castle at Thermisa – an impressive wall of red and orange limestonebut with only one tiny sector developed to give about 10 routes. Fabulous views down to the Aegean.The crag is approached from above, parking beneath the castle and scrambling through a breche to arrive at the routes (complete with names written in large red paint). This channels any wind coming off the sea – might be welcome on a warmer day but we could have done without it!We warmed up on Bombastic, a tough 6a+ up a steep crack (echoes of Pembroke E2 but with closely spaced bolts), then Jim led Pinnacle CrackBefore we did what is probably the route of the crag: #, 6a which takes the Arête of an overhanging wide cleft on superb jugs before exiting right up the headwall on more positive holds – excellent!Jim finished off with another fine line: Red Corner, 6a, with a baffling start followed by sustained finger jams and bridgingand I did the aretes either side – they look stunning, but the climbing is a bit disappointing: Leading Edge (LHS) is a tricky 6b+ and Cutting Edge (RHS) an even trickier 7a that’s quite blind and would be very tough to on sight.Having pretty much ticked the crag, it was back to our peaceful beach to watch our adopted Kingfisher going about his businessand catch the brooding sunset.

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