Leonidio – Dornrochen

We’d walked past this crag on our way up to King of Thrones on our last trip (moving as quickly as the oppressive heart would allow to reach the sanctuary of shade round the corner!) We didn’t stop for a proper recce but my first impression was of a samey tilted slab covered in goutes d’eau – we weren’t super inspired for a proper visit. However, with rain forecast around 11.30am we made an early start, attracted by the short approach and sunny aspect, to see if we could bag a couple of routes. Perched on the shoulder of the hill between Kokkinovrachos and Panagia, Dornroschen is approached via the path up to the three windmills that dominate the entrance to the valley.

Our plan to make the most of the dry start were somewhat frustrated by somebody (I won’t mention names) leaving her (oops – might have given the game away) boots in the car. I nipped down for them and can confirm it’s only a 20 minute round trip. Meanwhile, ominous signs of impending weather were already appearing up the valley.

Once we finally set boot to rock, it was clear that I’d badly underestimated the quality of the crag. Interesting features and surprising holds abound, providing fun, technical and thought-provoking climbing.

Here’s Helen on Es War Einmal, 5c


We also managed to do Konigin Elisabeth, 6a+/b before the first downpour, and Schuttrusch, 6b (and worth a +?) in further lull, before proper rain stopped play. Well worth a return visit.

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