Acadia is pretty much the only National Park in the North East (certainly the only one on our itinerary) and covers much of Mount Desert Island on the coast of Maine. There’s a fair bit of climbing here, which we plan to explore over the next few days, starting with Otter Cliffs. This spot was recommended by a friendly local we met in The Gunks: “You gotta go to Otter Cliffs – it’s crazy, you just rap down to the water and there you are; climbing straight out of the Atlantic Ocean!”
It’s certainly a pretty spot and the rock is an excellent red granite
… but it’s only about 60ft high, and a few hundred metres wide, and the predominant ethic is to top rope the routes. Gogarth it ain’t!
However, it’s a fun place to while away a Sunday afternoon (and we weren’t alone with that plan – it was rammed!)
We did a few routes on the detached pinnacle “The Sea Stack” of which Rock Lobster, 5.9 climbing to the right of the chimney in the shot below, was probably the best (and certainly trickiest)
Here’s Helen rapping in…
… and here’s a visiting climber from Missouri (that’s almost as far as we’ve come!) on the crux.
It led me to ponder why there isn’t more seacliff climbing in the States? Is it because…
A) by some geological quirk (subduction maybe? he says in complete ignorance – geologists please chip in… ) there are fewer seacliffs, even though there must be 5x the coastline.
B) there are seacliffs, but nobody climbs on them.
C) there’s loads of seacliff climbing, but I just haven’t heard of it.
Answers on a postcard (or comment!)