Monte Galineiro is one of Galicia’s major climbing areas, tucked in the southwest corner of the region, a couple of dozen km from the border with Portugal, and is one of the Donde Escalar featured crags. The mountain is clearly visible when heading south out of Vigo, but doesn’t look much from a distance, with the rocky hillside being studded with granite craglets.
As you approach up the winding road, individual buttresses become discernable, and overall there are a couple of hundred routes, typically around 10-15m. Not many of these catch a lot of winter sun, mostly facing west or northwest, so we narrowed our choice to maximise the rays and headed to sector El Chocho del Ano 88 (front left in the shot below, with El Mangani above and to the right)
We pretty much ticked the crag up to 6a,
with Desahogo Mananero, 6a, being the pick with its tempting quartzy jug just out of reach
… and No te Pases que Chupas, V+/6a having more of a regulation grit HVS feel.
Don’t let the sunshine and blue skies fool you – at 450m in a biting wind, I was chilly climbing in a fleece and belay jacket.
Moving to the higher El Mangani sector, Helen led an attractive looking route that post-dated the guide
… and I did the 4* Nikima Nikenta, 6a+, up the steep central rib
Hint: the approach path follows yellow and white paint flashes up behind the refugio before branching off rightwards at the level of the El Mangani buttress.
The sector Bismarck, that’s featured in Donde Escalar, is full on NE facing and will have to wait for a visit in warmer or at least less-windy weather.
Driving back south, to the very well-appointed and welcoming Camping Santa Tecla, we realised that we’d just catch the sunset if we got a move on. Sure enough, a blast up the adjacent Monte Tecla was rewarded with a fine view.