Back to Bunol

Bunol gets a big write up in Donde Escalar (full page spread and 4 karabiners) but we’d had a previous recce a few years ago and pretty much failed to even find the crag!

We’d got a spare half day to kill after abandoning Chiva, so thought we’d give it a second chance (it’s only 10mins out of the way). This time we were armed with the Levante Climbs guide, which has a quirky (even bizarre!) layout but does have excellent links to an accompanying Google Maps page of crag locations and approaches:

This got us to the parking and the rest was straightforward…

We trundled down the obvious path to sector Corral de Cabras (or goat shed!)

The “shed” in question forms the right half of the crag…

I’ve rarely seen such a fine crop of perma-draws. Only the seriously strong need apply!

Further left, things revert to the vertical (rather than horizontal!) and there are some fine looking lines. Tita la Fisurita is a magnificent corner crack – tough at 6a (think Stoney levels of polish!) but still worth doing despite that.

Helen said that Cuartito pa los Nenes, up the arete, was super fun.

Looking for something less “pre-loved” I tried Overbooked, allegedly 6b. It certainly wasn’t polished (little of the rock surface was sufficiently attached for that to be an issue!) Avoid!

There are almost certainly routes and perhaps whole sectors in the “Goldilocks zone” – not too polished, not too new, not too slabby and not too steep. If we decide to try for third time lucky we’ll check out Suenos de Verano, tucked down on the shady side of the gorge, which looks like it might be the real deal:

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