Tierra de Nadie – chasing the shade!

Sorry for the blog backlog (is that a back-blog?) but things have been a bit hectic for the last week. SPOILER ALERT – WE’VE MADE IT HOME – Story of 1,500 mile dash across Europe escaping lock-downs to follow…

Hard to believe that just seven days ago our only real concern was to find somewhere shady to make the most of a freak hot spell (25C+) in Valencia. That problem was easily solved and the obvious option for some shady relief was a revisit to Tierra de Nadie. If you missed the first installment on this stupendous, recently developed crag then check out the following link which includes access beta etc.


Arriving at the crag reinforced our first impression that it’s the current “in place” as we bumped into Pauline and Andy, and Katy and Dan; all completely random and unplanned – not to mention about ten Spanish teams.

The style of climbing very much suits Helen and me, with sustained rather than bouldery routes running to the best part of 40m on vertical to gently overhanging pockety rock. It’s also fair to say that the grades tend towards the friendlier end of the spectrum (though they’re certainly not all soft touches). Anyway, suffice to say that we had a really productive couple of days. Sorry that the photos aren’t up to much – that’s the downside of a north-facing crag.

Helen led a couple of HUGE 40m 6bs:

Here she is just catching a bit of evening sun, battling the rope drag right at the top of Furia de Titanes

and the adjacent GRIEM (same name as a route she did at Vallada, both named after the local mountain rescue organisation)

I managed to add another five notches to my annual 7a tally (still behind schedule after my dodgy shoulder): Pau (fun and not too testing), Vallada Estalla (TOUGH crux off a mono),

El rei de la Roca (tough, techy groove at the top with one stiff pull), Aegalis (outstanding and arguably the line of the crag, and actually 7a+ but easier than the last couple) and the adjacent La Roca (almost as good and perhaps harder?)

We even stayed long enough for the sun to catch the crag (briefly around 6ish) before disappearing beneath the horizon soon after. Here’s Sabina making the most of it (just visible at the top of the route)

and the view of the sun setting on the crag

We both came away with “project ideas” for a further visit, but things have taken an unexpected turn for the worse this week, and those will have to wait for another time…